Kvareli is a town in the northeast of Kakheti Province, located in the Alazani Valley near the foothills of the Greater Caucasus Mountains. This is where the famous Georgian author Ilia Chavchavadze was born. It is the largest wine-producing region in Georgia, and today we were heading to visit a winery to see how wine is made. I, along with Nino, her brother, and his wife, made a happy foursome as we drove in our BMW to the local winery. I was keen to taste the red and white wine.

The winery had lots of green gardens, and many tourists had arrived for the day. The place was full of Chinese tourists; a lot of them come to Georgia to taste and export wine from the country. One needs to take an entry ticket before venturing into the winery, and then you get a guided tour.

Before I entered the slightly dark and cool wine cellar, I was treated to a song and dance performed by a few Georgian musicians. Then I was let into the large cellar, which was cool and filled with plenty of wine bottles. I enjoyed some cheese and bread and tasted both white and red wine. It was fantastic! I managed to chat with some Indian tourists who were fascinated to see a Bollywood actor among them.

Sipping Wine in Kvareli

After the wine-tasting session, we moved to the Nekresi Monastery in Murzhka to see the Gremi Fortress. Gremi Fortress attracts many tourists. In the time of King Levan of Kakheti, the city was made the capital of the Kingdom of Kakheti.

Castles and churches were built on the foothills of the mountains with a population of over 100,000 people. One branch of the Silk Route moved towards and from Kakheti, and the region prospered because of that.

One can enjoy the fresco paintings in the Church of Archangels Michael and Gabriel. They were designed according to the rules of Georgian architecture. Levan of Kakheti was buried here, and there is a fresco image of him on his tomb.

The infrastructure around the Gremi Fortress is well developed, and there are many restaurants and souvenir shops around the fortress area. Gremi is a cultural and religious site, so it is important to dress appropriately and cover one’s shoulders and legs when entering the Church of Archangels.

What is the meaning of your name then, Nino? What does it mean? I asked the gorgeous Georgian lady who had become friendly with me and would be taking me around the country as my interpreter and guide.

Well, most girls in Georgia are called Nino. It means godly woman, pious woman, Nino replied with a faint giggle in her voice.

Hmm. So you are like a nun, a holy woman then, I retorted.

Well, you can say that, I guess, she replied sheepishly.

The scene was set. This was my third day in this wonderland, and I was ready to step out of the capital, Tbilisi. We drove towards the outskirts of the city, and breakfast was Poori and cheese.

Mera Joota Hai Japani, Meri Patlun Englistani

You know, we also call bread Poori in India, and this cheese we call Paneer, I said as I tucked into some local cheese with soft bread. The previous day, we had taken the ropeway to the Botanical Gardens, where I had the great joy of dancing and singing with a local Georgian who was playing the accordion and singing the famous song from a famous Raj Kapoor film. The song was “Mera Joota Hai Japani, Meri Patlun Englistani, Sar Pe Lal Topi Rusi, Phir Bhi Dil Hai Hindustani.” The old man kept singing, and I kept dancing to the old tune from Shree 420, the super hit film of Raj Kapoor and Nargis.

We all took a ropeway to the top of a hill and back again. My fondness for Nino was obvious to her brother, as I would take any opportunity to take pictures of her and put my arms around her, to the irritation of her brother.

You see, Anuj, I am taking you around Georgia, but don’t grab my sister by the waist and take her pictures. I am her brother. I didn’t like it. If you keep doing that, I will cancel the tour,” he said to me curtly.

It was obvious to me that Nino’s brother was possessive about his little sister and was just being protective of her. So, I took it as a point to keep a healthy distance from Nino for a few days as I did not want to jeopardize my trip.

After the tour around the Botanical Garden, our next stop was going to be the city of Signagi. We walked through the old city. Due to its gorgeous view across the Caucasus Mountains, magical atmosphere, and unique architecture, the city of Signagi is also called the City of Love. Lovers can come to the city and get married here instantly, and it is a famous honeymoon and holiday spot for lovers.

The city of Signagi is in the easternmost region of Georgia, called Kakheti, located in the Alazani Valley. It is a picturesque town with its cobbled streets, and it indeed deserves to be called the City of Love. Its name comes from an old Turkic word which means Asylum, which makes perfect sense as love is a type of madness and lovers are truly mad.

The settlements were first established in 1762, and the city was ruled by King Heraclius II of Georgia. It is a small town, and in the 17th century, there were only about 100 families of merchants in Signagi. It soon grew into a major wine-growing region of Georgia, famous for its vineyards.

The city has a mix of Armenians and Georgians who make up the local population. Signagi is about 113 km from the main capital, Tbilisi. There are two major orthodox churches in the city, one dedicated to St. George and the other to St. Stephen. The ancient Bodbe Monastery is located 2 km off Signagi, and that was going to be our next stop.

The Monastery of St. Nino is a Georgian Orthodox monastic complex and the seat of the Bishops of Bodbe, located 2 km from the town of Sighnaghi in Kakheti, Georgia. Originally built in the 9th century, it has been significantly remodeled, especially in the 17th century. It is now a nunnery. In the monastery, women and men are segregated, as it is a women’s monastery; men and women walk separately and keep a distance from each other.

The Bodbe Monastery is nestled among tall cypress trees on a steep hillside overlooking the Alazani Valley. Both the exterior and interior walls have been plastered and bear traces of restoration carried out in the 17th and 19th centuries. The complex includes a small hall and a church, where St. Nino’s grave is located.

According to history and legend, St. Nino, having witnessed the conversion of the Georgians to Christianity, withdrew to Bodbe, where she died between 338 and 340 AD.

The Deeply Spiritual Bodbe Monastery

The monastery also has a large repository of monastic books, the largest collection of spiritual and religious books in the country.

There is no entry fee to the monastery. The monks and nuns live a life of celibacy. Bishops must be unmarried men or widowers; a married man cannot become a bishop according to monastic rules.

The monastery was patronized by Tsar Alexander III of Russia. During the Soviet era, the monastery functioned as a hospital. Nino’s tomb, partly silver-colored, is bejeweled with a turquoise halo. Its religious significance makes it a very popular place of worship and a popular tourist destination.

This monument, often called the Stonehenge of Georgia, is an extraordinary multi-pillared structure that depicts the fascinating history of Georgia. Created by the Georgian sculptor Zurab Tsereteli, the monument is still unfinished.

The monument consists of 16 large columns that reach a height of 114 feet. The lower part of the pillars depicts the life of Jesus Christ, while the upper part of the columns shows the life and times of members of the Georgian royalty.

Exploring the Chronicle of Georgia

There is also a small Orthodox church next to the monument, which was unfortunately closed for the day. However, the most fascinating aspect is that from the height of the monument, you can get a panoramic view of Tbilisi Sea and the surrounding suburbs. The monument is situated on top of a hill, and one has to climb many flights of stairs to get there.

Near the entrance, artists sell their paintings, and I bought one that depicts Tbilisi City. This painting will remind me of my visit to this remarkable monument.

Until then, enjoy the pictures…

The city of Mtskheta is the oldest city in Georgia and one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world. It holds great significance as it is part of the largest wine-making and distilling region in the country.

Located 20 km north of Tbilisi, Mtskheta sits at the confluence of the Mtkvari and Aragvi rivers. The confluence is very beautiful, as the two rivers have distinct textures and colors; one is brown, and the other is green. The city is home to many old churches and has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage site. There is evidence of settlements in the city dating back to the Bronze Age.

City of Mtskheta and the Confluence of the Mtkvari and Aragvi Rivers

The city of Mtskheta was founded by the ancient Meschian tribes in the 5th century BC. I had the opportunity to visit an old Orthodox church in this city, which is full of flowers and fresh air.

I had always heard about the beautiful and majestic Caucasus Mountain Ranges. I, along with Nino and her brother, decided to head higher up to the Ski Resort of Gudauri. This is a city nestled among the snow peaks at 2,200 meters. It is around 120 km from the capital, Tbilisi, and is a popular holiday destination for many Georgian families. One can enjoy paragliding and horse riding here. There are many stalls selling fruits, boiled corn, and Shawarma. The snow-peaked mountains are very picturesque.

As we got out of our car, I caught a glimpse of a shop selling some exotic hats made from sheep fur. It caught my attention immediately, and I bought one cream-colored woolly hat. I wore it throughout our drive up the mountain ranges. The region is very cold, and there was a good deal of chilly wind blowing around, even in the summer months. Since it’s a famous ski resort, there are many hotels that keep travelers comfortable.

Snow Peek Mountains of Gudauri

I was a bit tired, so I skipped paragliding, but I did manage to capture the beauty of the lush green mountain ranges. The mountains are very green, which gives them a dark green shade. With the blue sky in the background, they make for very beautiful scenery.

I was not sure what to expect when I landed at the Tbilisi airport in Georgia. Although the flight was only two hours from Istanbul, I was still uncertain about what awaited me in this former part of the Soviet Union. The airport was modern but small, and I cleared passport control with ease as I had a valid visa and all my documents in order.

As I walked out of the exit door, my eyes fell on a very beautiful Georgian lady with tattoos on her hands and around her heaving breasts. Somehow, my eyes followed her, drawn by a pull I still can’t explain. “You need a taxi around Georgia, you tourist?” She smiled and gazed at me as I tried to steady myself. “Yes, I am here for traveling. I am from India and staying at the Ramada Hotel,” I explained, still unsure where the conversation was headed. “Oh, I have a taxi. We can take you to your hotel,” the lady said.

An Enchantress Called Nino

She was indeed very beautiful and she knew it. She knew that her enchanting eyes and hourglass figure would attract tourists like me from faraway lands. “Can I change some money first, then we can go? I will come with you,” I told her.

Soon, she took me to her car, a spanking BMW. It was a luxury taxi, that’s for sure. “This is my brother; he will drive us. Hello, my name is Nino, Nino Davitadze.” We drove for twenty minutes and soon arrived at my destination. I am a fool when it comes to women and, just like any man, could not resist Nino’s charms. “Well, I am here for three weeks. You are in the tour guide business, why not take me around the country? I want to see all of Georgia, one city after another. I am a Bollywood actor, you can Google me,” I introduced myself.

The entire next evening, we explored the city, drinking wine in the famous bars of Tbilisi. I will share with you some of the pictures and the panoramic view of the city from the top of a hill. More than that, it was the conversations with Nino that I enjoyed the most. She is a girl who loves tattoos and witchcraft. I knew we had common interests and that we would hit it off. I am still waiting for the night to end, as I am still tipsy from the wine and our many conversations.

I took an early morning flight from Delhi to Istanbul, with a two-hour stopover before my connecting flight from Istanbul Airport to Tbilisi, the capital of Georgia. I had already obtained a 30-day visa through iVisa and was all set to explore the city for the next twenty-five days. Yes, this would be my longest stay in a country; my previous trips had been for no more than two weeks.

But, as they say, anything can happen when you’re on an adventure. My trip started with a damper. In my absent-minded state, I decided to sit at the Turkish airport’s local McDonald’s to have my lunch. I got so engrossed in my thoughts that by the time I reached my gate to board the Turkish Airlines flight to Tbilisi, the flight had completed its full boarding and they had closed the gates. I was late by fifteen minutes. I was told that I could not board the flight and would have to buy another ticket. I must admit, I panicked a bit and rushed to the Turkish Airlines counter. They informed me that there was another flight in three hours, but I would have to buy a brand-new ticket, which would cost me another thousand dollars. As you can see, my journey to Georgia did not have a very auspicious start. But what’s done cannot be undone, and that was the case here.

Tbilisi

I managed to finally get a new ticket and board my flight. It was in Business Class. I realized that as I get older, I prefer to travel in Business Class as it is the only way to get a good sleep on a plane, especially during long flights.

The journey to Tbilisi was over two hours long. As luck would have it, a very attractive and pleasant taxi and tour operator named Nino met me at the arrivals. After changing dollars into the local currency, the lari, I decided to take a taxi ride with Nino in her BMW taxi. She drove me right up to the Ramada hotel.

“I love India. I’ve always wanted to see the Ganga. India is famous for magic, mysticism, and voodoo. You know, we have a woman here who couldn’t have babies. She went to India, swam in the river Ganga, and soon after, she gave birth to a child,” Nino told me.

“I am an actor, you know. I’ve been a Bollywood actor. See, I’ll show you my videos.” I started showing her my videos on YouTube. I feel that all around the world, this is the best way to establish trust and credibility. Just tell the world you are a Bollywood actor from India, and soon enough, you will have made a few friends.

Yes, and I feel I have already made a new and attractive friend in Tbilisi: Nino Davitadze. I am hoping she will be such a friend.