Today was the day—yes, the day we had all been waiting for—the final leg of the journey when we would conquer the mighty Everest and reach our goal: Everest Base Camp.

I started early, around seven in the morning. Arun, my roommate, had given me a Diamox tablet, and my oxygen levels were good. Some people in our group had fallen ill due to altitude sickness. Today was also my birthday, and it was the day we would all set foot on the legendary base camp.

Mighty Everest

At breakfast, I was showered with birthday wishes from fellow travellers. I promised them a rum party in the evening but was quickly admonished by Arwa.
“We are at very high altitude—this is no time to have rum and get drunk. Your goal is to get to EBC,” Arwa said. Like an obedient child, I agreed.

It was very cold, and snow had been falling since morning. The peaks of Everest were covered in thick snow, and the sky was a tortoise blue. The sun shone from behind the mountains, casting a yellowish hue across the sky. Needless to say, it was a breathtaking sight.

I just walked and walked—across rocks and snow. It was exhausting, but I kept going. I could see deep craters of frozen water beneath me, with huge stalactites and stalagmites protruding from underneath massive ice caves. Frozen ice mingled with rocks as I climbed higher. At times, it felt like my lungs would give in, but I kept pushing forward. I often stopped to catch my breath and rest before continuing. My Sherpa stayed with me the entire time, and I took frequent sips of water to stay hydrated.

The Everest Base Camp is at an altitude of 5,364 meters.

By late afternoon, I was finally there. I saw a large settlement of yellow tents. There were many horses in the area, available for those too exhausted to continue the trek. I managed to climb a huge white stone that symbolised Everest Base Camp. I stood beneath it, punching my fist into the air to show that I had finally achieved my goal—I had made it to EBC!

On the way back to Kala Patthar, I managed to hire a horse for 100 dollars. I wanted to enjoy a pony ride, and I truly did.

Until then, enjoy the pictures of the mighty base camp.

Gorakshep, situated at an altitude of 5,146 meters, is the last village before Everest Base Camp. It is a small settlement on the periphery of a lake blanketed with sand, located within Sagarmatha National Park. Gorakshep served as the original base camp when Swiss climbers attempted to conquer Everest in 1952. The trek from Gorakshep to Everest Base Camp takes approximately 2.5 hours, depending on the conditions. It was snowing quite heavily when I reached this remote village nestled in the foothills of Everest.

At this altitude, few people feel comfortable. Many experience acute mountain sickness and muscle spasms. I somehow managed to push through the pain barrier and fought off the effects of altitude sickness. You begin to cough frequently and become breathless due to the extremely low oxygen levels.

Gorakshep also serves as the starting point for the ascent to Kala Patthar, which offers a spectacular view of Everest. The name “Gorakshep” means “Dead Ravens,” a reference to the harsh, vegetation-sparse landscape. The oxygen levels are so low that very little grows in the area—only a few shrubs and bushes can be seen, with the rest of the terrain consisting of rocks and stones. The distance from Gorakshep to Everest Base Camp is about 4.3 km.

Gorakshep

There are lodges and tea houses for trekkers to stay overnight, though you may have to share a room with other trekkers. Again, there is limited Wi-Fi access, so one has to manage without reliable connectivity. It’s essential to stay well-hydrated while trekking in this region, as temperatures can drop drastically. Meals typically consist of traditional Nepali dishes such as dal bhat, rice, noodles, and thukpa.

The views are breathtaking, with the Khumbu Glacier as a dramatic backdrop. However, the air is very thin, and one must be well-acclimatized before attempting this challenging trek.

Mt Everest – The Enigma

For some time, I had a desire to reach the Everest Base Camp (EBC), and I am glad that I was finally able to achieve this goal over the weekend.

My interest in Mt Everest started in March 2019, when the FS2 team had completed a milestone and we went on an offsite to Udaipur. As with most offsites, we planned our next milestone, and I had themed it “Reaching the Summit – Mt Everest.” Back then, I did detailed research and connected each level of achieving the summit to the business growth we, as a team, should envision. I’m happy to say that, on the business front, we’ve achieved most of what we set out to do from that offsite. However, my personal wish to climb Everest remained unfulfilled—it lingered as a desire I held onto.

Then something happened last year: Himanshu Kapadia reached EBC, and my desire to attempt it reignited in full swing. So thank you, Himanshu—you conquered it, and that inspired me. I knew I just had to do it and stop making excuses.

Many felt I was taking a risk by attempting something so tenacious and demanding. My daughters, who trek, felt I should try some easier ones before going for EBC. Sakina thought I was too fragile, and Fawzan was too anxious to even say anything. Madan Bahal and Nijay Nair were like, “Do it if you must, but just be safe.”

I have to thank my leadership team for being so supportive and letting the show go on. My gym trainer for tolerating me, and Airborne for helping me build strength over the past month. I achieved what I did because of all these wonderful people around me. Lastly, my trekking group, who kept pushing me to do better than I did yesterday.

This trek has taught me many life lessons that I will carry forward into both my personal and professional life. But for now, thank you to everyone who has touched my life over the years.

There are several other peaks around Everest, and I was fortunate enough to capture them through my camera lens.

Lhotse: This is the fourth-highest peak and is often climbed along with Everest. It has a height of 8,516 meters. The word Lhotse means “southern peak” in the Tibetan language. It features some of the most astounding flora and fauna, including the beautiful Rhododendron flowers. These pinkish-red flowers can be seen all along the mountain trail. On May 18, 1956, the Swiss team of Ernst Reiss and Fritz Luchsinger scaled Lhotse. The mountain has one of the world’s most spectacular and steepest faces—its south face. The most dangerous section is the Khumbu Icefall, as its glacier structure is constantly changing.

Other Peaks

Makalu: This is the fifth-highest peak, located to the northeast of Everest, and is known for its pyramid-like shape. It stands at a height of 8,463 meters and lies about 14 miles east of Everest. It is a solitary peak with a four-sided pyramid shape in the Himalayas. The area is known for its steep slopes and razor-sharp ridges. Climbers need to use fixed ropes, ice axes, and crampons during the ascent.

Cho Oyu: This is the sixth-highest peak and is considered a relatively easier climb. Cho Oyu stands at an elevation of 8,201 meters. The name Cho Oyu means “Turquoise Goddess.” It is situated on the border between Nepal and Tibet, about 30 km west of Mount Everest. The area is home to fascinating medicinal plants and herbs.

Nuptse: A prominent peak located southwest of Everest.

Gyachung Kang: Offers one of the most beautiful views around the mountain. It is situated in Sagarmatha National Park, in the Gokyo area of Nepal. The trek from Namche to Khumjung provides a fascinating view of Khumbila and Tawache.

The love affair with Everest continued as I marched on with my trekking mates, Arun and Alwa, towards a much higher altitude—an elevation of 4,620 meters. The mountains take on a whole new light in the evening sky. The snow shimmers with a silver hue as the moon shines from the night sky. You can feel the air getting thinner, and it becomes difficult to breathe as one moves higher and higher. I made sure to keep my Diamox tablets with me at all times during the night.

Lobuche is a very small settlement in the Khumbu Valley, with only 86 people living in just 24 households. The village sits at an elevation of 4,920 meters, and the trek there is exhausting. It is one of the last night stops, offering very primitive lodging in stone huts on the way to base camp. You get a bunk bed, and there is just enough water for toilet facilities, but there was no hot water available—so we decided not to bathe. Breakfast was decent: eggs, fried rice, hot tea, and pancakes. I recommend having hot soups regularly to stay warm during the journey, and avoid chicken, as it is often stale. Don’t overeat, get plenty of sleep, and be prepared for aching limbs. As one ascends higher, the oxygen levels drop, and the body begins to feel the fatigue.

From Lobuche, one can also trek up to Kala Patthar, which lies at an altitude of 5,545 meters. There is no internet facility in Lobuche, and one has to pay Rs. 1,000 Nepali just to charge a laptop or mobile phone.

For me, the most fascinating part of the climb was the tombs of the dead climbers. It resembled a graveyard—memorials made of stones and mud, with bronze plaques bearing the names of those who perished while attempting to scale mighty Everest. Among them was Bulgarian climber Ivan Tomov, who died while climbing the peak without supplemental oxygen.

Babu Chiri Sherpa, who summited Everest ten times, spent 21 hours on the summit without oxygen. He also holds the record for the fastest ascent—16 hours and 56 minutes.

Song Wonbin, a Korean climber who died in 2012, fell to his doom due to altitude sickness while descending from Everest. He died at an area known as “The Balcony” at 8,848 meters.

Dead Climbers

Mohammad Khalid Hussain, a film director, was the fifth Bangladeshi to summit Everest but later perished during the descent.

I sat among the memorials to these brave men, just soaking in the fresh air of Everest. I felt humbled by the mighty peaks, grateful to still be breathing, thankful that I had enough strength left in my limbs to carry on and persevere toward my goal—the base camp.

It was an awe-inspiring experience to be among the spirits of these great climbers who scaled the peak but tragically perished. There was fear in my heart for my own safety, but the thrill of being among the mighty Himalayas kept me moving forward.

The Everest Odyssey continued as our group marched onward to Dingboche, which sits at an altitude of 4,410 meters. The climate here is sunnier and warmer, so I found it very relaxing. I spent most of my time at Café 4410, where I managed to get great Wi-Fi speeds. I spent much of the afternoon doing some serious writing for my blog.

I was quite impressed with the accommodations we had in the various lodges we visited. Most places had hot water facilities, the loos were clean, and our guides took good care of us. Apart from occasionally losing my walking stick, I managed to look after my luggage and money bag.

Café 4410

I got up late, as I was still recovering from the exhausting treks of the past few days. One can view stunning peaks like Mount Everest, Makalu, Cho Oyu, and Lhotse from here.

The oxygen levels are very low and drop by almost 60% as one ascends. A few people from our group have suffered from altitude sickness and might have to fall back due to it. Because of that, it’s important to take Diamox in the morning to help maintain oxygen levels.

Dingboche is also considered the last Sherpa village. It is said that this was the village where Sherpa Tenzing and Sir Edmund Hillary first set foot as they proceeded onward on their journey.

The entire region is filled with gompas, prayer flags, prayer wheels, and mani walls. Dingboche is also a key stop for acclimatization. Most of my group spent time at Café 4410, playing cards and watching hiking videos.

Until then, enjoy the pictures of the fascinating Café 4410 and some of the most exquisite peaks in the region.

Also known as the “Mother’s Necklace,” this mountain is situated in Koshi Province. It has two gigantic peaks: the main peak stands at 6,812 meters, while the lower peak on the western side reaches 6,170 meters. Its image also appears on the one-rupee Nepali note. The mountain has massive ridges that resemble the long arms of a mother trying to protect her child. Ama Dablam is also referred to as the “Matterhorn of the Himalayas.”

The Mighty Ama Dablam

The peak was first conquered by Mike Ward, Barry Bishop, and Mike Gill on March 13, 1961. Located 162 kilometers from Biratnagar, it is the third most climbed Himalayan peak.

Until then, enjoy the stunning pictures of this fascinating mountain.

After a one-day acclimatization, we moved towards Deboche. This was a very long and gruelling trek—almost a ten-hour ordeal—which we had to undertake.

Deboche is a very quiet and tranquil Buddhist village situated at an altitude of 3,820 meters. It is located about thirty minutes south of Tengboche. The village is surrounded by beautiful pine forests and is known for its lovely rhododendron flowers. These red wildflowers adorn the region along with its many waterfalls. One has to cross several hanging bridges to navigate the area.

Deboche

The region also houses a nunnery founded in 1913. It was destroyed by an earthquake and later rebuilt with local support. Deboche is located in the Khumbu region of Nepal. The trekking route is lined with Buddhist prayer wheels, with mantras inscribed on them.

The highlight of this trek is the Tengboche Monastery, one of the largest in the region. The monastery was founded by Lama Gulu in 1960. It can be explored in about twenty to thirty minutes. For a fee of three hundred Nepali rupees, you can enter and participate in Buddhist chanting for a sense of peace and enlightenment.

This trek is gruelling, as the incline increases rapidly, but the rewarding part is that you get a clear view of Everest along with other famous peaks in the region as you climb.

I was looking forward to the rest day—my body was aching with fatigue, and I was determined to stay in bed a little longer to regain some strength. Namche Bazaar is also known as the gateway to Everest, as it is a popular stopover for trekkers to recuperate and re-acclimatize.

I’ve made some really interesting friends along the way. My roommate has been Arun, and my trekking companion is Alwa Hussain. It’s been very cold at night, with temperatures dropping to -1°C. There’s a heavy mist and cloud cover in the evenings, often followed by a light downpour in the afternoon.

Namche Bazaar

Our group includes many foreigners from Australia and Europe, along with a healthy mix of enthusiastic Indian trekkers. Alwa and I happen to be the oldest in the group—I’m 51 and she’s 52. I had a chat with Alwa over lunch; she is a PR professional and a Bohra Muslim. I was fascinated as she shared glimpses of her life.

“You know, I was born into poverty, Anuj. I had to wear a burkha when I went to school, but I would often take it off. My husband, however, is an atheist and doesn’t believe in religion,” Alwa told me over fried rice.

As usual, I chatted about my blogging journey with some group members over coffee, and I spoke at length about my admiration for Osho and his philosophy. While walking through the stone-cobbled streets of Namche Bazaar, some younger members of our group recognized me as a Bollywood actor and took pictures with me.

“I agree with your philosophy, sir. I don’t want to marry either. I just want to live with my partner. Marriage is a useless institution,” one girl told me enthusiastically.

Namche Bazaar is a vibrant Sherpa town full of trekker lodges. I’ve been surviving on tomato soup, toast, and eggs. I was advised to avoid chicken, as it tends to go stale in this region. My staple trekking diet has been energy drinks and Mars Bars. Apart from losing my trekking stick at a local shop, everything has gone according to plan. The people in my group have been very friendly overall, and we are quite a cheerful bunch.

As I’ve been trekking through these treacherous mountains, I’ve been amazed at the speed and agility with which the Sherpas navigate the terrain. Most of them carry music systems tied to their waists or shoulders, playing loud Nepali folk songs. It seems to be a form of meditation that helps them stay focused and motivated. These men are incredibly agile and can carry heavy loads with ease.

From Namche Bazaar, one can see the mighty peaks of Ama Dablam, Thamserku, and Kongde Ri. The view of these mountains is absolutely breathtaking. There are also shops selling Tibetan merchandise and hiking equipment. I tasted homemade yak cheese and butter—a unique experience. However, the cheese was very hard and couldn’t be spread on a bun or bread. The locals call this cheese chhurpi, and it’s definitely something one should try.

The Wi-Fi facility in the region is decent, although there are spots where the connection drops.