The Baboon and the Birds at Lake Nakuru

August 8, 2016

The word Nakuru in the Masai language means a dusty place and is also the fourth largest city at Kenya and the capital of Nakuru County.

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The Nakuru Lake lies to the south of the city and is a great collection of African fauna.

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It is a sanctuary for many wild animals. There are elephants roaming free, water buffaloes, baboons and zebras and wilder beasts that find this an ideal habitat. Continue Reading<span class="screen-reader-text"> "The Baboon and the Birds at Lake Nakuru"</span>

By adminin others

Onwards to Mount Kenya and ruminations!

August 7, 2016

The Amboseli leg of my journey was coming to an end and it was time for us to move towards mount Kenya. In the meanwhile I also took the opportunity to apply for my Zambia visa online. I used a 3G dongle with a local SIM card to get access to internet on the move and while the connection was not exactly stellar – it did get the job done!

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I could upload and send mails , everything on the move from the comfort of my van. I am thinking now that I need to go back and tie up with a telecom service provider and get a discounted deal. Telecommunication cost can be a substantial part of ones travelling expenses especially if you also want to blog while at it. Continue Reading<span class="screen-reader-text"> "Onwards to Mount Kenya and ruminations!"</span>

By adminin others

The Lioness of Amboseli and the many animals there !

August 5, 2016

For most tourists to Africa the goal of the Safari is to catch the big game – perhaps a glimpse of the Lion King. It is not a tough thing to do if you look in the right places and I spotted the king of the beasts as he lazily slept on the coarse grass of Amboseli Park.

I stopped my mini bus to take pictures of this magnificent beast, and today it did not disappoint – except that it was a lioness! The Queen (can we call it that?) was laying on the grass as it looked at me drawing close in my bus.

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It got up and yawned at me and went along for a lazy indolent, stroll. I clicked away with my camera and the distance between me and her mustn’t have been more then 20 meters and I had a good view.

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Next was a team of elephants who where busy eating the bush grass and sipping water from the lake with their cubs at their tails.

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As we wandered further we came upon another a herd of wild beasts, water buffaloes and zebras.

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This time we circled around the lake to catch a glimpse of some amazing bird which included a red billed Pelican and what might have been a Kingfisher.

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So much of color on a bird the kingfisher definitely looked majestic and perhaps no wonder it became a mascot for a beer brand!

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“ You know Anuj, I used to watch Mahabharata when I was young and I think it was a famous Indian TV serial which was also very famous in Kenya” remarked John my guide once during the safari .

John - my guide in the bush! — John – my guide in the bush!

“ I take a lot of Indians to safari , nice people and they eat a lot of chilies with their food !” He added making small talk in the heat and dust of the bush.

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I smiled and asked “ who was your favorite hero from Mahabharata then?” John scratched his head for a while and said “ Bhishma, the man who lay on a bed of arrows , man he was so powerful because no one could kill him as he had a divine boon , so all they could do was to put him on a bed of arrows .”

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I was frankly amazed he knew all this, about a culture so far away to be impossible. I was also fairly heart warmed thinking the strength of our culture that spreads so far and wide.

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John was a fine guide and made sure I had everything I needed on my journey, he took care of my lunch my drinks and my rest and recreation.

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Africans are simple people, brave strong and forthright. Sometimes I wonder how they were once colonized by the Continental Powers at one time.

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Kenya today is a vibrant economy and has evolved with the spread of technology, internet and mobile telephony. They are one of the more advanced nations in Africa.

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Tourism forms a big part of their national revenue and there are people from all over the world here. I saw and met Danes, Russians, Koreans, Japanese all come over to see this wild spectacle of Africa. And what a spectacle it was indeed.

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As we headed back from the observation point in the park at about lunch time I realized i had spent almost six hours watching these magnificent animals.

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Time just flew and I wouldn’t have noted had it not been as I was hungry. After a bite of spaghetti and meatballs I opened a bottle of lemonade called Krest, a brand owned by Coca Cola and available in Africa.

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As I sipped it I could tell the flavor of the drink had not changed and was the same even twenty five years back when I was last in Africa growing up in a land so vast and unique.Now with the afternoon heat getting to me i soon retired for a nap dreaming about my next destination which is Mount Kenya.

By adminin Africa, others

Hakuna Matata from Kenya

August 2, 2016

Madagascar was a blast and now I head forward and it was time to bid adieu to Antananarivo and fly in to the Jomo Kenyata Airport (IATA: NBO, ICAO: HKJK) at Nairobi for the next leg of my African adventure. Visa was not an issue though yes Indian passport holders need one with a fee of $50 for a single entry tourist visa. You can apply for an e visa also.

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I was booked into the Radisson Blu hotel and once checked in – spent the next two days resting and getting my bearings around the bustling new city.

Downtown Nairobi – The Uhuru National Park – From Wikipedia

I was advised by my bankers at India not to use your credit cards in this part of the world. It is a bit like the credit card fraud capital of the world though no it is not – as per statistics that I can see – that is in fact the US! I was advised and took along an ICICI Multi currency Travel card – a sort of “pre paid” card with a stipulated amount of dollars loaded onto it which can be topped up according to my need. I felt that the card was in fact a god’s gift of sorts considering how secure it made travelling and transacting.

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I roamed around the city and found my self a tour operator for a 10 day trip around Kenya, covering the Amboseli National Park, The Masai Mara game reserve, Mount Kenya and others. At $250 a day, all inclusive it was a bit steep to me but it was a private tour and the service has been excellent so far.

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Soon we blazed around Nairobi headed to sample and see the wilderness of Amboseli wild life at it’s closest.

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I have this huge SUV with a open top all to myself with a exclusive guide and driver. We were to get to a camp at the park.

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It is about eight hours drive from Nairobi. We stopped en route for food and other rations for the camp. Once at the camp I had a tent to myself and perhaps very aptly named Hippo.

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Other tents had names like Baboon or Zebra etc and I was pretty happy with my camp’s appellation. After a lunch of Chicken cooked African style with peas and rice we headed for the park.

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I realized and saw the magic of having an open top SUV. It was so convenient for me to take photo’s of the animals and they were so near to us.

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First I saw a group of ostriches, then a herd of Zebras, followed by wilder beasts, lions and before long wild donkeys and before long I managed to glimpse a hyena as well.

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The view was glorious and camera worked over time. I got some great shot’s of the sunset among the trees and the lake of course.

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On the way back I watched as we passed Mount Kenya in all it’s majesty just staring at me from afar.

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Truly this was a magnificent land of Disney’s Lion King and it felt like I was right in the middle of all the action. All the animals looked like characters in the film, a mind blowing experience.

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On the way back, we stopped at the local Masai Village and I was greeted by Thrombo which means The Chief. He showed me around the village.

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I danced with the Masai and saw how they made fire with a stick, a piece of wood some elephant dung and straw.

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It is a art in itself and a trick one must learn to survive in the wild. After strolling through the village with their huts made of straw and cow dung, it looked not too different from the villages at India in U.P or Bihar.

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Except that the Masai are a polygamous society. They also keep cattle , raise goats and keep donkeys.

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They are an ancient nomadic tribe of Africa and have kept their tradition and way of life intact for thousands of years.

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I went into one of the huts and saw their kitchen and cooking utensils , the beds are made of cow hides and their markets sell colorful artifacts and jungle jewelry.

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The word Amboseli means the Hurricane in Swahili, and this land witnesses many a hurricaneand hence the name. Amboseli is also a wild bat ones that inhabits these land.

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That is the legend of the land and it’s wildlife park and for me it was a very satisfying experience.

By adminin others

Bees and Snakes and the wildlife of Isalo!

August 1, 2016

My days at the island nation of Madagascar were getting to be fun. It had been countrywide journeys to cross the length and breadth and to get as good as possible a feel of this place.

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The afternoons were getting warmer and I didn’t feel the need to take my jacket out as I venture into the wild.

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As one of the last things to do here before I head further deeper into the African land and we headed off into the thick of the Isalo National park .

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The entry fee is 65000 Ariary, about $22 or about 1460 Indian Rupees for a day and you need to pay another 120000 Ariary to get a guide, which is mandatory and who would take you around and inside the park.

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Some visitors tour the vast expanse of the park over a week or so. We, my guide and I began our little trek began through thick woods and wild rocks.

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we marched on crossing water falls and small streams and before soon I was engrossed in these purple flowers with huge bees buzzing on them.

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That was it and I was amazed at the scene and begun taking close up shots of the bees and the flowers with my camera.

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A little distance away was a jungle camp with people having lunch with tents put up in tents right in the middle of the jungle park.

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I decided to rest for a while but not before I got a glimpse of the Lemurs and I took lot of pictures of all the three distinct types of Lemurs including the one with the long ringed tails.

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After a quick meal of Chicken and rice I had what was probably the best dessert I have had in a while pineapple in caramel sauce and boy was it mind blowing or what?!!

After that snack I was up and ready to take on more of the the jungle again. I went down in between the steams to capture the play of nature in my camera.

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It is much cooler in the jungle with the thick foliage and cool streams and water ways, one feels so one with nature here and a kind of soothing feeling sets in.

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At times like this one just wants to sit back and contemplate life a bit.

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After a full tour of the park which took about two hours we headed back home, but not before I spotted a brown and green snake in the bushes on our path.

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I got a few close shots but must have scared the snake as he rustled past through the bushes.

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As if on cue my guide picked up a stick and tried to pull the snake closer so that I could get a better shot of him. The snake fought back and jumped to the other side before slipping away from us.

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Now we were dangerously close to the snake he could have attacked us , but i managed to get a couple of shots of the slippery bugger.

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I am getting a hang of taking close up and portrait shots now and getting to grips with my larger lens on the camera.

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I knew I wanted more and there was more to be had, deeper Africa to be probed and wilder sights to be seen. I knew I was heading forward onward to Kenya now, the wild life explorer in me having woken up !!

By adminin others

The burning sky of Madagascar and Going Afar in Africa

July 28, 2016

The last few days here at Madagascar have been me sitting in the back of the car and Londry, my driver aide de camp driving through

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the dusty meandering roads going though lush green farm land interspersed with lakes and canals. The arteries of this great land of Madagascar.

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The sky took on crazy hues of purple and pink in the evening as the sunset approached and at times it burnt bright like a forest fire.

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We blazed through small villages and towns. The village typically comprised of hut’s a open market , with kid’s playing on the filed and farmers taking their cattle across the road.

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As proud Madagascans march away in the evening for a stroll or to catch their glimpse of the market place . Cathedrals litter the countryside in this predominantly Catholic Country.

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People are liberal and polygamy was a way of life in this part of the world, but due to economic realities perhaps this tradition seems to have collapsed.

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People are generally happy and social events are things like cock fights , birthday singing parities or playing bowling in the park seem to be favorite pastimes. I got a chance to see a song and dance performed at the hotel I was staying at.

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They love to make things out of wood from exotic wall hangings to simple furniture even statues and ornaments.

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The Malagasy food mainly constitutes pork, beef, rice and vegetables. It’s a weak economy but the people are simple and while at the bar of in the restaurant, people seem to want you to have fun. The place has it’s short comings but also has it’s own unique flavor and identity.

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Not to forget to me mention the top class service my driver Londry was providing me. I was strolling in the bar of my hotel , asked for a whisky at the bar. One evening and a few pegs down and a few fish fingers later, my eyes met that of Natasha.

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A young nymph who was tending to the bar. I just had to know and enjoy her giggly smile and bronze skin. In the evening I let my feelings be known to Londry regarding Natasha and able Man Friday, he promised to help. Laundry along with his network of friends in the hotel got the job done and we changed hotels the next day as Natasha was smuggled into my arms. We spent the whole morning together drinking and listening to Beyonce . But alas the love making was truly out of Africa , so tender but so harsh , needless to say my day was made. I slept through the whole of the next day, recovering from the excesses of the morning. I welcomed the unique purple and pink sunset of this land again. Yes I could indeed now smell Africa now I could flow in my veins.

By adminin others

The Meaning of “Mura Mura” and the Legends of The Lakes

July 27, 2016

On my way to the Volcanic lake Tritriva I had a whole bunch of kids chanting “ Mura Mura “ to me. At first baffled by the word and then I grew curious, on further inquiry I realized that it means “ slowly slowly “ in Malagasy.

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I had heard the words from Flaveya when we made love to each other in Antananarivo. Then they didn’t mean anything then and now they do.

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A rhythmic slowly slowly is how you take it here in Africa. Perhaps that is the philosophy of my journey in this country, to take it easy and to take it slowly , that is when you get to taste the real fun out of a place. Take your time !

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The legend has it that near the lake Tritriva two lovers Rabeniomby and Ravolahanta not unlike Rome & Juliet. They met parental opprobrium to their marriage and in a sad twist killed themselves by jumping into the lake. They came back in their next life as trees on either bank who grew to be tall.

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They are called the “hazo malahelo”, a weeping willow, the sad tree and if one breaks a branch or leaf, red fluid said to be the beloveds’ blood oozes out! The branches of each of the trees grew as creepers intertwined with each other to be joined for ever. A tragic love story of undying love was the great legend of Lake Tritriva. Then there is as if complementary Legend of Lake Andraikiba and one version has a mad man roaming the banks of this river laughing and dancing.

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One night he fell in to the river and drowned . Locals say they can still hear him laughing and hear his dance during the night.

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To me both these rivers where in chanting and to have swam in one was an experience. I mean these lakes are inside volcanic craters and are mineral rich and this adds to the medicinal quality of their water .

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I enjoyed Lake Tritriva for the trek up and down and around the lake. The trek was exhausting and steep and half an hour each way. It was almost 4 km up and down. Andraikiba is a much larger lake in size and formation and is surrounded by rocky hills .

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The sunset here just above the lake is something not to miss and I attempted capturing it in my camera.

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The sun breaks into so many vibrant colors here and the winter blue sky is a perfect foil as the canvass for these colors.

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The habitation around the lake seems to be agrarian and the landscape is rural.

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The cock fights are added attractions at these two lakes and one can bet on their favorite cock to participate in the sport.

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All in all the Legends of the two lakes.

By adminin others

Ox Carting across Antribe and a love affair with a Lake.

July 21, 2016

Cruising along the country side I came upon and fell in love with the Tritriva lake in the middle of a volcanic crater.

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It is a volcanic lake formation approximately 160 m deep and part of the mountains of the Vàkinankàratra region of Madagascar. Green waters fill it and a breathtaking view of the forest and rocks surrounds the lake.

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They had even put zip lines across the lake from one end of the rock to the other and some guys were zipping across like pros.

https://www.facebook.com/anujtikku1974/videos/919640731495842/

I had a swim and an exhausting trek up hill from the lake.

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The drive across the rural areas of Madagascar gives one a real flavor of this brown and dusty land with clear blue sky and crisp clouds in the air and to reach a lake all so enchanting I knew and I swore to come back.

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Next day was a trek back to the Tritriva lake this time a took my shorts and a towel not to mention some eats and water. The trek this time was easier and I also swam a bit longer and went a longer distance into the lake.

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I had Londry going berserk with the camera capturing the natural glory. I then decided to take a boat till the other end of the lake.

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This was so that i could capture every angle of the lake and I did. From it’s jagged rocks to cactus growing wild like creepers on this rock.

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The other end had a huge gash like rock outcropping in it and I along with my boat ventured into it’s narrow opening.

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Suddenly I heard shrieks of wild bats and them fluttering above me. I lost my composure for a while but gained it back as my boatman reassured me that their was nothing to be scared of.

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I got some great pictures and then strolled up back again to the top of the mountain where we had parked our car.

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The Lake Tritriva was a mind-blowing experience a little haven of peace , tranquility of beauty in this wild land.

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The lake has no fish because it is very cold , it’s dead calmness adds to the flavor of the place . I wanted to do the zip line but then looking at my weight decided against it.

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I as it is wanted to go right on top of the lake stop the zip line and jump into the lake. But alas that was not allowed. The lake I was told drains in the rain and fills up in the dry season from underground sources.

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On my way back to the hotel I found some excitement through OX Carting. I stopped a ox cart of two ox’s carrying vegetables.

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I then sat on the cart took the reigns in my hand and the locals cheered as the ox’s ran and the cart darted across the buddy village road.

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It was fun to the core with street kid’s running and dancing behind my cart . I was waving my ox whip in the air swirling it around as I was some kind of a conquering king of Madagascar.

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Alas we had to stop as it was getting late and the sun was setting. I thanked the village folks for their hospitality faced

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with a wandering persona and gave them some money for their efforts so that they appreciate me also! This was indeed a great experience and I thought after sea carting in the Mauritius it was now Ox carting in Madagascar. Comparing pricing and at the end of it it cost me lesser than anything I’d seen before.

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Man these places are really value for money . A bag full of fun to be had for sure!

By adminin others

Crocodile Dandy at Antananarivo

July 18, 2016

Londry my driver ad guide in the African Island nation had been taking about the Crocodile Farm on the outskirts of Antananarivo. I thought it’d be a great opportunity to see the rural side of the country. Most people reside on farms here and the landscape is agrarian.

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After a bit of snacking on Samosas and Beef Sandwiched we marched towards the farm meandering through the dusty mud lanes of rural Africa.

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With wooden huts and tin as houses this was real Africa. Kids played around unhindered on the side and I had the good fortune to capture a song and dance party in this rustic land.

https://www.facebook.com/anuj.tikku/videos/10154123156412911/

I snapped away at the singer and the audience who where watching the show with intent. A few min drive away was the Crocodile Farm.

https://www.facebook.com/anujtikku1974/videos/918979831561932/

I paid 30,000 Ariary as the entrance fee and was rather enchanted with the various crocodile skulls that were for sale in the local shop.

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After this began what one could only call reptilian splendor. There were eggs of Snakes , Chameleons, tortoise on display.

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I walked down the park which was rich with the various plants and animals. I for the first time got the opportunity to capture the Lemur in great details I used my power zoom lens for this.

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I managed to get a group of four Lemurs hopping and munching leaves together. I was so close to them it was magical .

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On the side were ponds where the crocodiles rested , they looked like stone almost as they hardly move.

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I clicked away and got some good shot’s. Right at the center of the park is a giant lake. It’s banks are covered with crocodiles resting in the afternoon and on the trees are while gulls. Some flying over the pond the others nesting on the trees. As I moved along the narrow path down towards the pond I got a glimpse to a mighty tortoise strolling towards it shelter and I just clicked away.

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All the walking had made me hungry so I sat down at the local bar with in the bar and ordered for some shrimp salad which was served to me with neither fuss nor flurry! A very satisfying visit I thought and the chance to see more of the local flora and fauna where I managed to see animals up close and personal. As the afternoon drew to an end I strolled back up towards the exit but not before buying some Vanilla Perfume from the shop for myself .

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I am really liking this continent and slowly sinking into Africa and I know that I must go further and planning to cover another five countries now that I am here. Planning for Zambia, Kenya, Tanzania and Zimbabwe and they should be exciting places to visit. But now all the focus was on Madagascar it’s people and it’s streets. I also moved into a new hotel, a bit away from the city. It is quieter and less noisy then the previous one which was downtown. As I sip away on my single malt whisky to usher an African Sunset so orange and bright that it matches my drink and perhaps enhance the intoxication and the charms of Africa wild Africa.

By adminin others

Out of Africa, An Ode to a Land so Different

July 15, 2016

The last time from Mauritius and deep sea diving – I went back home to Ne Delhi – to de compress perhaps from the sights and sounds of a new adventure and another milestone on my journeys.

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This time though taking in Madagascar – I knew I just had to push further and see more of this continent. It was as if Africa was welcoming me with its open arms.

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Perhaps it was the home coming of its prodigal son. I had spent over 15 years in the bosom of Africa when my father had worked in Nigeria . I had gone to school at Lagos and had holidayed in my childhood at Kenya and Ethiopia. Africa was in my blood and I’s learned to swim here at the tender age of 6 whilst catching the waves of the Pacific Ocean.

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This rich land of culture and natural resources and yet so impoverished.

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This dichotomy is what I wanted to explore further and see why a land so ancient and so deep in it’s ethnic and cultural diversity has not yet taken wings and and most of it’s people live victim to poverty, hunger and disease.

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A land so fertile in minerals, soil, rivers and waterfalls. A land of wild animals and beasts so beautiful, a land of such natural beauty but hampered as it remains weak and impoverished.

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But as for now other thoughts were swarming my mind and I planned to move ahead like an explorer in the 21st century and I decided to cover five more countries with Kenya, Mozambique , Tanzania , Zambia and Zimbabwe also while at it!

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I took Londry with me and started my my bookings done in a contiguous journey on Kenya Airways and all for US$ 3000. I was pleasantly amazed how soon I had all my tickets and all I needed were the e visa for Zimbabwe and Zambia which I initiated on my computer.

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In an hour we were driving out of Antananarivo toward Antsirabe where we planned to see the volcanic lakes. The ride was breezy and I kept stopping the car to take pictures of the most beautiful country side of this nation.

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Mountains , hillocks , farms , canals , rivers, ponds and the people. At sunset the sun as if burst into flames of orange, yellow, pink and purple.

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I took some amazing shots of this and was very excited by my journey ahead. There was a sense of positivity and un befuddled euphoria within me.

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Once into the exotic town of Antsirabe I meandered, travelling aimlessly inclined to discover through the city of Antsirabe.

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I saw it’s age old railway station and off course the town post office which I found interesting in its shape and wall colours used.

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We drove down duty lanes through a farm land to finally arrive at the Tritriva Lake.

https://www.facebook.com/anuj.tikku/videos/10154114733047911/

A group of street kids selling various artefacts befriended me and took my down the narrow mountain goat path and right down to this exotic volcanic lake. We walked down singing and dancing and I tried to learn Malagasy from the kids and they in turn trying to learn English from me!

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10154117960282911&set=a.10154117955252911.1073741848.746592910&type=3&theater

Finally I saw it the green lake and I plunged into it and it was icy cold but I swam and swam till the other end of the rock feeling like some kind of a Neptune!

https://www.facebook.com/anuj.tikku/videos/10154118319977911/

Londry my latest African aide de camp took pictures , on our way back we saw some brave souls trying to do a zip tie like over the lake. Knowing fairly well where I fell on the wight category I knew I should not try this! Up hill was even more exhausting as the climb was steep . At the end i thanked the kid’;s a gulped a bottle of mineral water. We then drove to Andraikiba lake to watch another spectacle – a cock fight my guy informed me!

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10154115156117911&set=ms.c.eJxlk8ENAzAIAzeqYgI47L9Yo34qXb4nA44hWqqUStWSR~%3BroT3aSZAVIBzU~_0HgtEhlV3k~%3BVLGjO2iTdIGP46QwHyD7U1FPVi8RFMiQVSVLsU9cjSJvkILEuptHXIEmIJIU~_~%3Bby0n3f1IXGwyrtJKjDL3M49jaRmmMYRPZ9gn9uGmtokbpLB~%3BfQsTh~%3BR4WwmP0~_qk0NSDzHvcA4c3o~_SJIHpXvloeqixSZizJSRmxaam6FC8VYs7tQb~%3By6Ei2digI3~_aLx2t6MY~-.bps.a.10154115156037911.1073741845.746592910&type=3&theater

It was crazy near the banks of the river as we walked into a ring of cock fighters and yes fighting with cocks is a regular sport here and people gamble on their favourite cocks.

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10154115156782911&set=ms.c.eJxlk8ENAzAIAzeqYgI47L9Yo34qXb4nA44hWqqUStWSR~%3BroT3aSZAVIBzU~_0HgtEhlV3k~%3BVLGjO2iTdIGP46QwHyD7U1FPVi8RFMiQVSVLsU9cjSJvkILEuptHXIEmIJIU~_~%3Bby0n3f1IXGwyrtJKjDL3M49jaRmmMYRPZ9gn9uGmtokbpLB~%3BfQsTh~%3BR4WwmP0~_qk0NSDzHvcA4c3o~_SJIHpXvloeqixSZizJSRmxaam6FC8VYs7tQb~%3By6Ei2digI3~_aLx2t6MY~-.bps.a.10154115156037911.1073741845.746592910&type=3&theater

The ring is made in the middle and the cock that pushes the other one out of the ring wins not very much like an avian Sumo wrestling match mind you! These are mean cocks, tall, fat and fully fathered with huge beaks and necks.

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There were two rings and a maddening crowd of hundreds of fans cheering and praying for their cock to win. It was interesting to watch and my first experience of a live organised cock fight. The cocks meanwhile did not have it good as any pugilist does not. Beautiful creatures these but to man’s sad wanton ness for violence lost and often bleeding at times and were often drenched in water like two wild boxers. It was an experience. Not all good – but a wonderment how we aim for the lowest !!