The original name of the temple is *Nichigai Suzan Harinji Temple*. It is run by the Indo-Japanese Society and has a distinctly Japanese design and aesthetic. The temple features a unique roof made of bamboo that slopes outward. The roof curves up at the eaves, giving it a calming, tranquil feel. The architecture and appearance of this temple are similar to the world-renowned temples in Kyoto, Japan. The entire place exudes a soothing, meditative atmosphere.

Dharam Chakra Indo-Japan Temple, Sarnath

There is a statue of the Buddha, made from black stone, positioned under a tree. I took some great pictures there, capturing a meditative pose. The inner sanctum of the temple houses a massive wooden statue of the Buddha in a reclining posture. It is very meditative, with a beautifully designed head, and the words *Na Mu Myo Ho Ren Ge Kyo* are inscribed underneath.

The wood used to create the statue is sandalwood, which fills the air with a vibrant, calming fragrance that enhances the temple’s serenity. On the left side of the temple stands a grey stone pillar with Japanese characters inscribed on it.

The temple is located in the Baraipur locality of Sarnath, approximately 1 km from the Sarnath Railway Station.

It is open from 6 a.m. to 6 p.m., and entry is free. A must-see for anyone visiting the city of Lord Buddha.

The city of Sarnath is known as **Rishi Patna**, a place where sages descended on Earth. It is the site of **Mrigadava**, the Deer Park. It is here that the Buddha gave his first sermon on Dhamma to the world. He taught two discourses here: the **Dhammacakkappavattana Sutta** and the profound **Anattalakhana Sutta**.

Deer Park: Sarnath

The Deer Park is 2 km from Sarnath Railway Station and 8 km from Varanasi Junction. It is also known as **Isipatana**, a spiritual place and a deer sanctuary. It also houses birds and ostriches, which are kept behind barbed wire and in cages, making it difficult for me to take good photographs of the animals in the zoo.

Spread across 33 acres of lush green land, Deer Park was established in 1956 to educate people about wildlife conservation, protection, and the rescue of wild animals. The zoo comprises a large deer enclosure, a reptile enclosure, and a pond aviary. There are 90 spotted deer and six blackbucks that roam fearlessly in the large, lush, natural environment. Additionally, one can also see emus, crocodiles, turtles, as well as birds like white-necked storks, black-necked storks, painted storks, and white stork pelicans. There is a large water body on the north side of the mini zoo where a boating facility is provided.

**Timings:** 8:00 AM to 5:30 PM
**Entry Fee:** Rs. 10 for Indians, Rs. 50 for Foreigners

Today was our third day in Sarnath City, and we were now fully immersed in Buddhist religion and tradition. I have been quite impressed with the city; it is a place that has a lot of facilities for tourists. Apart from daily tour buses, efficient tour guides, ATM facilities, and banks, what impressed me most were the signages and how efficiently all the Buddhist temples were labeled. The history and background of each temple and stupa were clearly engraved on stone tablets and signboards, which described the importance of each site in the city.

Wat Thai: Sarnath

Today we started our excursions from the Wat Thai temple. “Wat” means temple in Thailand. Wat Thai is a Hinayana Buddhist temple established in 1971. It is a testament to Thai temple design, including a unique roof in the traditional Thai style. The temple houses a Buddha statue made of Chunar sandstone, which stands 80 feet and 9 inches tall. This statue is mounted on an octagonal base with carvings and is capped by a lotus flower placed at the feet of the Buddha. There are running fountains with blooming lotus flowers as one approaches this gigantic statue, which is so large that it can be seen from the road itself.

The entire place is surrounded by lush green lawns, where one can enjoy a leisurely walk. The complex is peaceful and meditative, and I enjoyed walking all around the Buddha statue.

I took a few rounds of the temple, sipping Coke and eating ice cream. The other major building in the complex is the shrine, also known as the Vihar. It is built from red brick and sandstone, with a sloping rooftop and gable ends. The chamber contains a large statue of the Golden Buddha, surrounded by several smaller Buddha statues.

There is no entry fee, and the temple is open from 8:00 AM to 5:00 PM. What I enjoyed most was the silence and spaciousness of this complex. The entire complex spans across 2.5 acres of land. The original idea for the temple was conceived by Rashmi Shasan, a Buddhist monk of Indian origin.

The cutting and polishing of the huge sandstone Buddha took five years. This is a must-see temple for all tourists visiting Sarnath. It is also a great place to take pictures and enjoy the silence of the Buddha.

The Chaukhandi Stupa is situated 8 km away from the Cantt Railway Station in Varanasi. It is a protected monument of national importance and was declared so in 2019 by the Archaeological Survey of India.

It was built during the Gupta period, in the 4th and 5th centuries, and is the site where Buddha met his first disciples. The stupa has a rectangular shape with steps leading upwards. It is made from red baked brick and is very strong and sturdy.

One of the unique features of the Chaukhandi Stupa is its massive rectangular shape atop a terraced plinth. This plinth is also rectangular, while the actual tower itself is octagonal. This architectural pattern is highly uncommon for the period in which it is believed to have been built.

Similarly, the mystery surrounding the visual style of the stupa is quite intriguing. Stupas associated with Buddhism are generally dome-shaped, such as the famous Sanchi Stupa. However, this stupa is distinctly octagonal, making it unique among Buddhist stupas.

The Chaukhandi Stupa

Even the celebrated Chinese traveler Xuanzang (Hiuen Tsiang) wrote about the stupa in the 7th century AD. The height of the stupa is 93 feet, and it is constructed entirely from red brick and stone. It has three diminishing terraces, each about 12 feet high and 12 feet broad. Each terrace is supported by an outer and inner wall, with several cross walls to reinforce the structure. The outer walls of the terraces are ornamented by a series of niches separated by pilasters. The images of the Buddha, deep in meditation, clearly indicate that the structure was built during the Gupta period. The octagonal brick tower crowning the stupa is a Mughal addition, erected in 1588 AD by Govardhan, the son of King Todarmal.

The stupa looks particularly stunning during the evening sunset. It is surrounded by lush green grass and lawns, where one can take an evening stroll while admiring the monument. Visitors can view the monument by paying a nominal fee of Rs 20 for adults.

We decided to move early today, as in the afternoon it gets a bit hot. I wanted to see the Dhamek Stupa up close and personal, so I chose to venture inside the complex where the excavations were first made that unearthed the Stupa and the Ashoka Pillar. The national emblem of India, the Ashoka Pillar, can be seen in this compound. It is almost 50 meters in height, and along with the Stupa, it was a gift from Ashoka to the Buddhist faith.

 The Dhamek Stupa and The Ashoka Pillar: Sarnath

There is a distinct difference between a Stupa and a Pillar. The Stupa is a religious structure with relics stored inside, and it has religious symbolism. A column is a pillar made of stone with engravings, primarily used for administrative and commemorative purposes. The Dhamek Stupa was built in 249 B.C. by Emperor Ashoka the Great of the Mauryan Dynasty during his reign when he ruled the entire Indian subcontinent.

It is believed that the Stupa contains the ashes of the Buddha. The name Sarnath comes from the word *Saranganatha*, meaning “lord of the deer.” The Stupa is in the middle of an excavation site. Sarnath remained abandoned until 1834, when Alexander Cunningham excavated the site and restored it for tourists. One can see the entire site for a fee of Rs 100. There are a few restaurants nearby, as well as shops selling water and cold drinks. The best way to explore the excavations is on foot.

The Dhamek Stupa is cylindrical in shape and built with red bricks and Chunar sandstone, with the lower part being entirely covered with carved stones. Probably, the base of the Stupa dates back to the Ashokan period. It contains eight niches facing eight directions, which possibly contained images of Buddha. The walls of the Stupa are ornamented with magnificently sculpted floral and geometrical designs that manifest a high level of craftsmanship on stone during the period of the Gupta Dynasty.

There are also Banarasi sari shops I visited—it was a novel experience watching the artisans make silk saris on handlooms. It is quite an art form.

Buddha delivered his first sermon, called *Dhammacakkappavattana Sutta*, or the “Setting in Motion the Wheel of Dharma.”

I also saw the great Ashoka Pillar, which is part of the excavation site. The pillar is made of sandstone and is almost 15 meters in height. It has a cylindrical shaft, a bell-shaped base, and a capital that consists of four lions, a wheel, and a bull, a horse, a lion, and an elephant. The four lions face the four cardinal directions and symbolize the power and majesty of Ashoka’s rule. The wheel represents the dharma, or the law of nature, that Ashoka followed and propagated. The bull, the horse, the lion, and the elephant represent the four noble truths that Buddha taught. The Ashoka Pillar is also the source of the national emblem of India, which features the four lions and the wheel.

The best time to visit Sarnath is from October to March, as the weather is cooler, and it is best to explore the site on foot. The place is full of tourists from the East who want to study and practice the teachings of Buddha.

The Dhamek Stupa is a very large stupa built on the archaeological site of Sarnath. This is the very place where Buddha gave his first sermon to his first five disciples, who formed the original sangha. The monuments and stupas of Sarnath were destroyed by the Turks. “Dhamek” in Sanskrit means “pondering over the law.”

The stupa is a huge, cylindrical structure made of red stone and brick, standing 43.6 meters high and 28 meters in diameter. I managed to get some great pictures of it and the gigantic religious structure. An Ashoka Pillar stands near the site, but it has now been removed and placed in the local museum. The area around the stupa has been declared a deer sanctuary, and the structure features carvings and engravings dating back to King Ashoka’s time and even the Gupta period.

The Dhamek Stupa and Dining at the UP 65 Restaurant

The stupa was built in 249 BCE by King Ashoka of the Maurya Dynasty. For Indian nationals, there is an entry fee of Rs 20, and for foreigners, it is Rs 300. It is easily accessible, and you can take an electric rickshaw ride to get to the giant stupa.

The stupa has been restored six times but is still incomplete. It has beautiful carvings of humans and birds that adorn its walls, along with writings in Brahmi script.

This site has been on UNESCO’s tentative list for over 25 years. The place is of great interest to Buddhist scholars, and monks can be seen all around Sarnath as they come here for spiritual knowledge.

After soaking in the energy from the stupa, we thought we should look for a good place to have dinner. Food had been rather disappointing in this city, but after asking a few locals, we managed to find a very unique and tasty restaurant called UP 65.

Yes, that’s the name of the restaurant—UP 65—and there is a reason for it. The number 65 features as the motorcycle number for all the motorcycles in the city of Sarnath. All of them have 65 on their number plates, which is why the restaurant is named UP 65.

I enjoyed the finest Dhaba meat and dal makhani at this fabulous restaurant. The taste of the food was exactly what I wanted, and I was delighted to finally find some good food in Sarnath, which was a great relief.

I recommend UP 65 to all foodies and tourists who want to enjoy good non-veg and Mughlai food in Sarnath. I was also pleasantly surprised by how well-lit, clean, and modern the roads and streets of this city are. The city is well-kept, and there are a lot of AC buses that facilitate tourists, making it easy to travel freely across the city’s sites. There are signs everywhere, along with plenty of eateries and roadside food joints to cater to tourists from all across the state and even the Buddhist world. I was impressed with the efficiency of the city and recommend all travel enthusiasts to add Sarnath to their bucket list.

Jaunpur was a revelation, and I was really starting to get a feel for what Uttar Pradesh is all about. But my thirst for exploring Purvanchal had grown, and I, along with my friend and mate Tiwari, decided to venture further. Our next stop was the town of Sarnath, which is a two-hour taxi ride from Jaunpur.

I spent time gazing out of my window and listening to a famous song from an old Bollywood film called *Kudrat* throughout our car ride. Sarnath is a religious place, and it is very important to people of the Buddhist faith. In fact, the legend has it that Buddha gave his first sermon after enlightenment in Sarnath. He taught his first five disciples in this city itself. Thus, along with Gaya, this city is also very significant for the Buddhist faith.

Sarnath: The Land of Buddha

We managed to find a cheap hotel and, after lunch, decided to visit the city and its many monasteries and stupas. We first walked up to the Mulagandha Kuti Vihar, the very place where Buddha gave his first sermon. The Vihar has a large Buddhist temple and statues of Buddha along with his first five disciples, whose names were Ananda, Kondanna, Bhadiyya, Vaapa, Mahanaama, and Assaji. These five disciples were known as the *Panchavargika*. Buddha chose them because he felt they could understand what he had to say. He gave his sermon in a deer park in Sarnath. Buddha taught them the Four Noble Truths and the Eightfold Path—his first teachings after he attained enlightenment.

The Vihar has a temple at its center, and there are sprawling gardens and wide walkways where families can take a walk. Don’t forget to take off your shoes when you enter the temple. As I entered, I saw a large group of Vietnamese tourists trying to meditate in front of the temple. They all seemed to be having a jolly good time.

I walked up to the statue of Buddha preaching to his disciples and took some great pictures. I also managed to make a wish by spinning the wishing wheels around the statue. The statue at the center of the temple looked majestic; it was golden in color and really stood out. The temple walls were full of paintings depicting Buddha with his disciples, and the images told the story of Buddha’s life.

Sarnath is 10 km northeast of Varanasi and is part of the Buddhist Char Dham, which includes Lumbi in Nepal, Bodh Gaya, Kushinagar, and Sarnath. The name of the city comes from a Sanskrit word that means “The Lord of Deer.” The legend has it that Buddha offered himself as a deer when a king wanted to kill a doe with his arrow. The king was so moved by this gesture that he made the entire place into a deer sanctuary.

The temples here are built and maintained by the Maha Bodhi Society, which looks after the upkeep of this religious place. The frescoes on the temple walls were created by a Japanese artist named Kosetsu Nosu and are very elaborate. Near the statue of Buddha giving his sermon is also a large bell, which is rung twice a day. The bell has carvings of Buddhist shlokas on it and is of religious significance.

Badi Masjid, also known as the Jama Mosque, was built in the 15th century and is one of the largest mosques in India. It is situated 2.2 km northeast of Jaunpur. The mosque was built by Hussain Shah Sharqi of the Jaunpur Sultanate. Prayers are performed every Friday, and it is a major tourist attraction.

The mosque is indeed vast, resembling a giant fortress. The stone walls are very sturdy and have withstood the test of time. The entire building is robust and tough. The foundation of the mosque was laid in 1438 by Ibrahim Shah, but the construction of the steps began only in 1440 after his death. It is said that Ibrahim Shah built the mosque to provide employment for local people who were suffering due to a famine at the time. The mosque was constructed in stages and was finally completed in 1473 by the last monarch, Hussain Shah.

Badi Majid, Jaunpur

The mosque stands tall at a height of 200 feet and is located in Purani Bazar, in an area called Shah Ganj. It is an important monument that reflects the architectural style of the Sharki period. The mosque is artistic, and there are 27 steps one must climb to reach it. It has a huge courtyard and a central pond where people wash their hands and feet before performing the evening prayers. When we arrived at the mosque, it was closed, but some locals opened the main gate for us, allowing us to venture inside. I walked across the courtyard, admiring the view and watching pigeons fly past me. The mosque has many pigeons flying around it.

The decorations and engravings on the walls are in an Egyptian style. The design of the stone arches and pillars is unique, and I managed to capture some great photographs. It felt peaceful, and there was hardly anyone there at the time of our visit, so I was able to fully absorb the atmosphere of the place.

Along with Lal Darwaza and Atala Masjid, this is the third most important mosque in the city and by far the largest. It is a must-see for all tourists visiting Jaunpur.

I was up a bit late today. We had to make sure that we made the last day in this city productive. Just after lunch, I headed off to the inner part of the city through the traffic of the markets and the bazaars in search of the Sheetala Mata Mandir. It is the premier temple and religious site for Hindus in the city. Many throng to the temple for prayers, and as luck would have it, we made it in time for the afternoon Arti.

I bought the customary coconut and prasad as offerings to the goddess and then walked further to reach the holy temple. It is one of the oldest temples in the city where both Shiv and Shakti are worshipped. It looks like any other Vedic temple. In the center is the Arti of the Mata, where the pujari performs the Arti every day as offerings is given to the goddess by her devotees. It is believed that the Mata was the kuldevi, and the temple was built by the Yadavs or the Bahars in her honor.

Sheetala Mata Dham Mandir, Jaunpur

The Mata devoted herself to looking after the sick children of her devotees, especially those suffering from smallpox. After she died, a temple was built in her honor. She was remembered by the villagers as Mata Masani, the goddess of smallpox.

The temple is 4 km from Jaunpur Junction and can be easily reached by auto or scooter. There is a central pond, also called a water kund, just behind the temple. Along with the central deity, there are idols of Ganesha and Bhagwan Satyanarayan as well. One can ring the large bells during the afternoon Arti as devotees sing bhajans in praise of Sheetala Mata, the goddess who cured their children of diseases, including smallpox.

The Lal Darwaza was built in 1447 by Queen V.V. Rajye Bibi, the wife of Muhammad Shah Sharki, and was dedicated to the saint Sayid Ali Dawood Kuttubudin.

The stones used in the construction of the mosque were red sandstone bought from Varanasi. These stones were taken from demolished temples in the city. Lal Darwaza Masjid also housed the palace of the Queen, and she used it as her private prayer mosque. Bibi Rajye established a religious school here, also called an Islamic madrasa, to impart religious knowledge of the Quran and other Muslim sacred texts. The madrasa still exists today and continues to educate the people living nearby.

The mosque stands in Mohollah Namaz Gah, also known as *Al-Jamia-Tul-Husania*. Later, it became a center of Islamic education, where Muslim girls were also given *taleem* (education).

The mosque has three gateways, with the eastern gate being the main and largest gate. This is a very famous monument in the city and is a major tourist attraction. It is a place that keeps the Islamic heritage of this city alive and thriving.