Exploring the colours and sound’s of Pushkar

November 25, 2015

The day started bright and sunny though I got up at noon. I found some photography advice in my early morning emails “ You need to frame each picture before you click it.” That kind of made sense and so I was determined to get my photography right today. I headed out in the dusty heat of the town’s by lanes and headed straight for the fair grounds. I passed a sugar cane juice shop and felt in urgent need of some sugar cane juice, to fuel me up. At Rs 20 a glass it was a steal and I then headed to the jalebi, samosa and kachori shops. I ate a bit and got myself photographed using the locals to assist me at that time.

Some distance away I noticed that he main stage was being set up for a concert. I looked round and realised it was being performed by the Midival Punditz (the musicians Gaurav & Tapan) and I had heard them before and I knew I liked what they did fusing the Indian with electronica. The band had begun in 1997 and the show today at Pushkar was going to be free and open to all, I knew my evening was sorted .

The band begun at 7:30 in the evening and the stage lit up with Red , Violet and Purple light’s with the Punditz performing in full flight. There was Flute, keyboards, guitar, percussion and two shiny Apple laptops to generate the rhythmic fusion sound which amplified the Rajasthani Folk lyric’s producing an intoxicating sound. It was a blend of the traditional and the enchanting all dancing in tandem.The flute play was specially very powerful. I managed to slip right in front of the stage , where people enjoyed the music sitting on cushion’s. I used both the lenses of my camera to try capture the moments on the stage.

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The Punditz are India’s most prolific Electronica act and have worked with the greats of our generation like Shankar Ehsaan Loy, Kailash Kher, Anushka Shankar and Ustad Sultan Khan. Their performance with the electronic keyboard was mind blowing. The lighting and background was gothic Rajisthan. The Mela was full of foreign travellers who were enjoying the show. There were thousand’s of local’s sitting, enjoying the folk and fusion sound . The evening wind was now blowing fast and the concert soon came to an end with a flurry of sound and light .

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There was ovation all around and the crowd started to disperse as the show had ended. Men in traditional Indian rural attire dhoti kurta and glorious head gear, the pagri and women with huge nose ring’s in colourful ghagra choli. Kid’s sitting on their fathers shoulder’s ,every one slowly trudging out of the Pushkar Fair Grounds. I halted for a while to see the Fire Lanter’s being light up and sent upward’s to the sky.

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I had been posting on my social media and a friend called up “ why didn’t you get an interview with the band?” he asked and I thought it was noble idea. I looked them up on Facebook for their page and gave a call to the number listed.It was late but I was told that the band would be leaving for Delhi but I could do a telephonic interview with them tomorrow. So fingers crossed I may just get an interview with this talented band.

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Kacchi Ghodi – the diaper mare, an unique performance

November 24, 2015

The mela, fair drew me back to watch in full colour the explosion of rural India buying for it self. I recall reading in my business school days about the haat and the mandi where rural India -a huge market comes to buy. Like a market place the Pushkar Fair – Camel Fair was energetic, raucous and lively. This was Rajasthan and the colours all around where enough to blow one’s mind, standing sober. It drew me back and what was unique was the eclectic mixture of culture, religion, spirituality, commerce all at one place.

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At one end there were people buying livestock at fantastic prices – $200,000 horses and camels and at the other end there was this huge music and dance festival that seemed to be always on. I think I heard it in passing that it is Kartik Purnima tomorrow the 25th November 2015. It would be a full moon night and there is bound to be a musical soiree someplace for sure?

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Wandering I came upon a troupe performing something interesting and I had seen bits and pieces in other places. It was a sort of a horse dance where the dancers were dressed up as horses. I jumped in wholeheartedly and danced with them and learnt about the Kacchi Ghodi dance. A kaccha in Hindi is a diaper of sorts, a jock strap and a ghodi is a mare. It is essentially where the dancers wear elaborate horse costumes hung around their waists slung across their shoulders.

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I watched them dance away in gay abandon and what can I say and I did see the odd transvestite walking around and who do in Indian culture do occupy a bit of renown and are more than circus sideshow freaks. The dance was unique to this part of the world but I knew I had seen it adapted at several other places and there were other similar performers and gigs across India I recall seeing.

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Before long I knew that it was a photo opportunity that I needed to be a part of and do something with and I got myself a diaper and waltzed straight in.

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It felt energizing, enervating and a whole lot of fun and as if it were like letting go at a new kind of a level. I hadn’t had a drink in like 3 days and nothing stronger than water and I was running on empty here and yet this place created it’s own buzz and you did not need anything more except just the atmosphere!!

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I heard there could be a rock band performing here and I need to find that out like now and wil get back soon if I find them !!

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Honesty and Simplicity The Real India at The Pushkar Sarovar and Horse Fair

November 24, 2015

After several months on varied trails I took some time out the last few months to visit my India, the country of my birth and the country on my passport. After a few weeks in the hills I stumbled up to this small town in Rajasthan that has an annual camel fair. It is here at Pushkar I realised that I got the smell, taste and feel of the India. A proud nation holding it’s head high and happy to flaunt it’s rural root’s. I eat in the local shop’s three times a day and I forgot often to take back change often more than a hundred rupees each time. Every time I forget the waiter or the shopkeeper rushes behind me to return my money. I was amazed and overwhelmed with the honesty of these people. They were not as educated or rich or well versed with the way’s of the modern world, but they were honest people and took pride in the fact .

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The urban Indian existence has gotten too corrupted with the razzmatazz of material thing’s driving people’s desires and actions. Killing people for financial gain seems now to be a all too common thing in urban offices and homes. In that strident march to get ahead and show off their latest gadgets, cars, girlfriends and material goods, we do not mind hurting one another. But out here in the middle of the desert a different sense of India is thriving in all it’s glory. There may be material poverty here, yet there is a wealth of spiritually from inside. Cost of living is not high either and they know how to have as much fun as we do in our urban den’s. No pubs, discos, foreign liquor or denim jean’s here. They take pride in made in India things. Folk’s here enjoy a jalebi and lassi with kachori and dal like it were caviar perhaps. They smoke their hookah’s in the evening instead of fancy cigar’s and you could not tell if they wish it otherwise!

The women dance with their flowing ghagras and sing folk song’s. No luxury sedan’s here and they enjoy the camel ride and take pride in their horses. I walked into the camel fair in the afternoon and was told their was a horse called Bhura whose selling price was more then one crore (just a shade less than $200,000). So much for the latest BMW 7 series. All dressed up in his green orange and red head gear Surat the horse trader told me about the intricacies of buying a horse “ This one is for 10 lakh’s (about $15000) , he is white and has ear’s that are open , his face is long which mean’s he is very good looking , of course he is from Punjab.” . he said with pride patting the nose of the horse. “ This one is 25 lakh’s (about $38,000), he has slim long leg’s and large hoof’s , his upper body is more muscular then the rest . He is a race horse and thus command’s such a high price.” It is all genetics then in the horse trade I thought as I strolled around the stable and saw the horses enjoying their dinner of grain and straw.

Ambling around as the day led to dusk I walked upto the Pushkar Sarovar, a holy lake and a place of peace and tranquility with bright Diwali light’s glittering it’s bank’s in the evening. I walked down to the Pepal tree and prayed beside the Tulsi Tree. On the bank’s of the lake sat sadhu’s feasting on the Bhandara (free feast as far as I could tell) that was arranged. I asked one sadhu who was wearing a very fancy and colourful headgear if I could photograph him “ No way give me five hundred rupees then only will I let you photograph me.” I was amused and remarked in Hindi (my mother tongue) “Baba ho car paise ki batein .” A sadhu (someone who has renounced) and yet you ask for money? He glared at me angrily “ Kyon baba ko bhook nahi lagti, paise ke bina khana kaise khayen ge. why? don’t sadhus get hungry, without money where will we find food” Homespun wisdom perhaps and a sign of the times, we all need money and I need a monetisation plan the way I am living. The lake side was a site of great peace and I stopped there for a while to soak in the atmosphere and wonder.

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The Pushkar Fair

November 22, 2015

Tired of the hills and the snow I thought – perhaps it might be time to do a view of the deserts and the fairs they have there and some one mentioned in passing Pushkar and there I was headed – took me a huge road drive and I finally got here. Checked into the Hillview – a less than the best possible kind of a place but really close to where the action was and some reviews are here on a third party site that I have nothing to do except point to !! Travelling in India is of course easier for me as I am an Indian but this definitely is not a place to be missed !

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At the Mela

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At the Brahma Temple at Pushkar

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A musician in the desert

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Coversations with the Lama

November 20, 2015

After several attempts back and forth with the staff and security personnel of the Gyuto Monastery, I got no where with my meeting with the Dalai Lama. But I was determined to meet the Karmappa Lama who is the number two in the hierarchy with the Dalai Lama and the heir apparent. I made time to get a written appointment and reached his office at the Gyuto monastery at 9:00 am today. A lot of visitor’s had gathered from Leh and Ladakh. Their were foreign dignitaries and some local Tibetan folk there also. Security was tight and everyone was being frisked and no phones and camera’s are allowed as protocol. After an hour long wait in what seemed to be ante chambers, I was taken to another room which was just outside the holy man’s library and I waited. I thought about what I’d read about the Karmapa. Born Ogyen Trinley Dorje 30 years back at Lahtok town of Chamodo in Tibet to nomadic parents, he was identified as a Karmapa by a search party that Tai Sutupa – a lama who is thought to be a Bodhisatva, had led to find the 17th Karmapa in 1992. He was subsequently installed at the Tsurphu Monastery and recognised by the 14th Dalai Lama and subsequently in an United Nations forum by the People’s Reuplic of China also as the 17th Karmapa and said they would train him. At age 14 however he fled Tibet through Nepal and reached India at Dharmashala, Mcleodganj in the year 2000 and took up residence here. He however has a contestant to the position -Trinley Thaye Dorje, son of a Rimpoche.

I was ushered in by his bodyguard’s who were always smiling and eager it seemed to help. I entered into a room full of book’s and Buddha statues fashioned out of copper. The Lama was seated in the middle. He looked perhaps like any other young Tibetan man calm and composed. He spoke excellent English and looked relaxed. But I might have been disappointed and I had kind of hoped that there would be a halo around his head. I realise I might not have felt an energy field or aura around him either. I introduced myself and spoke a bit about my past and my travails and about my travels .

I asked him politely and timidly deferential “Do you think that I should forgive my father’s murders and not ask for the death penalty for them in my representations to the court as a victim” he was a bit hesitant and then said ”No I think forgiveness is the only way , your father cannot come back and you should not hold on to the pain , forgiveness is for your betterment . No one should be allowed to kill another man not even the state .“ A part of me was expecting that answer and so I said “ But these people had murdered before and they could do it again .” he looked up and then with a pause said “ Yes even then life imprisonment will give him some chance to repent , if you put him to death the pain will be only for a few moment’s and then he will be dead , what is the point . You should make sure he is alive and stays in prison till he dies a neutral death , that is the best for him and for you.”

I then went on to talk to him on my travels’s and my new passion “ Good you are doing a great thing , keep travelling for a few more year’s you will become a wise man even wiser then I .” he chuckled and seemed genuinely interested. I then took a deep breath and said “ You know Martin Luther King , Gandhi , Mandela they all fought for freedom for their people and country and they achieved their goal’s in their one life time . But you and the Dalai Lama have been fighting for half a century with no solution to the Tibetan problem in sight , in face china has become stronger as the year’s have passed. What keep’s you motivated to keep fighting when your ultimate gaol is still so far away .” He looked me in the eye and said “ The key thing to remember is Hope , that is a very strong thing for us . Hope above all else , above the final goal , that is what keep’s us going .” I thought that this was so close to the philosophy of The Gita “ Karm kar par phal ki iccha mat kar.” Keep on rockin’ don’t think about the rewards!

And finally my favourite question “ What is your view on sex do you regard it as dirty .” he was a bit taken aback “ Well we certainly do not encourage sex , we don’t talk about it much and in buddhist monastic life , if one has taken a vow then that monk has to abstain from sex . We think sex is linked with desire and we are trying to cut desire , through our chanting , seva and prayer . By cutting desire we can reach Samsara or Moksha otherwise the relentless cycle of Birth and Death will continue .” Somewhere inside I smiled and figured perhaps in that case moksha is coming my way anytime soon where I am now and Samsara is a distant dream for me. He had had enough of question’s by now and got up to give me his signed book .The photographer took our snap together and he wished me well. I still haven’t gotten that snap and they did say they’d email me, hopefully it will be e mailed to me soon and I will update soon.

But I felt after the meeting perhaps a bit let down I was expecting something extraordinary which did not happen. Maybe expectations are what the problem is? I guess the lama maybe is probably just another ordinary human performing his duties for his people. He is as much individual like you and I and probably even fallible just like all of us. Yes but my inquisitiveness is now over and I feel that my journey of Dharamshala and Manali needs to now come to an end. I am thinking to head towards Rajasthan for the Pushkar Mela tomorrow. Let’s see and as they say – arrivederci and see you till then.

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The Temples and Hot Water Springs of Manikaran

November 17, 2015

I started early on a Tuesday morning and it was chilly outside in the morning, the better to want to warm up I thought! After a quick breakfast of vegetable parathas some mango juice and cornflakes, not your everyday English breakfast at that. I checked out of the Piccadily Hotel that had been my home at Manali and headed straight for my taxi for Manikaran – a mysterious land I was told. My driver all eager to go whisked the car through the mountain pass which was lush green.The Beas river flowing and keeping me company. Breathtaking as it was I had to keep stopping to capture the breathtaking view of the icy mountain ranges in my camera. The blue sky and the Beas river flowing underneath. After a while the beauty of nature lulled me to sleep and before I knew it, I had slept through half of the journey. The driver dutifully woke me up once we reached our destination Manikaran, nestled in the valley between the Rivers Beas and the Parvati. It is a holy place for Hindus and the Sikhs.

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I walked down a bridge and a narrow path way to come to Gudrudwara Manikaran Sahib a sikh temple which was right adjacent to a temple to Shiva. This is what was unique about the place. A blend of faiths a Gurudwara Sahib, a Shiv Temple and a Ram Temple all together in one place. The colour’s of the people and their bright clothes caught my attention. I started clicking with my Canon and forgot the phone for a while. I pursued and sought audience with the Gurudwara priests who were carrying Kripans and wore their distinctive bright turbans.

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There were smiling local women in their glittering outfits and it were as if everyone was here for a spiritual and a religious party. The steam from the hot water spring broke into the air, as pilgrim’s and local’s bathed in it’s magical and healing waters. I kept walking up to the Ram Temple next at the end of my path and climbed right to the top. It was quite a distance but I managed and perhaps the gods willed it thus.Once there I rang the ghanta, the local temple bell as a mark of my obeisance.

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On my way back I stopped at Shanti Da Dhaba for some local mom’s family cooked food and it was worth every penny that it cost. The food though turned out to be spicy and the meat seemed too dry. I had captured the view of the city and it’s winding bazaar’s through my lens and was feeling pretty pleased with my effort though I will warn I have a camera and that still does not make me a photographer. The Beas river gurgling underneath gave the place a tranquil and re assuring ambience .

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I stopped at a Hanuman Temple in Kullu , it was in the middle of this garden which had pond with lotus leaves .One had to climb a stairway to get the darshan of Hunuman ji . I got my self a tika and prayed form my happiness for my parent’s departed souls.

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I trudged back to my car after spending a few hour’s in the lap of the holy city of Manikaran. We were now headed back to Manali as the evening was approaching. On the way we stopped at the river rafting point and i saw with great delight dozen’s of people enjoying the rafting experience.

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But how could the journey through this heartland of Himachal be complete without savouring the taste of it’s apples I thought. I stopped over at the local fruit market to enjoy some apples and true to their style they where sweet and crisp, all red in colour. We were now approaching Nagar a town about 15 km form Manali.

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It had been a very good trip and i was satisfied that I got to see a large chunk of this landscape , indeed it’s natural beauty is as rich and vibrant as that of Kashmir where I started my journeys home town of sorts as it was for me. Famous for it’s Kulu cap’s and warm shales this was indeed a very satisfying and enriching experience for me. Travel they say widens the horizons.

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Manali’s favourite watering hole the bar, lodge, restaurant & spa of Johnson’s

November 17, 2015

When planning for Manali I was told that the Baked Trout here is the most famous dish to eat here. I was pointed towards the famous Johnson’s Lodge and Restaurant. I got their easily wading through the bustling market and town centre of Manali, a few minutes away from the road to the Hidimba Temple. The road was dotted with some really good looking bars and eateries. The touristy nature was quite evident and looked like the usual downtown of most most of the places I had been visiting till now. I spotted Johnson’s and decided I would attempt a food review for my blog today .

The Johnson Bar and lodge is a big property with a British design bar and a setting area of cushion’s and wooden benches. It was started in 2004 by Mehul Johnson who is a director with IndiaBulls.com a real estate firm.

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There is garden at the back with alfresco seating to enjoy the open sky. The bar is well stocked with the best liquor in the world. I noted a wide selection of single malt, scotch blends, gin and some of the best vodka. I ordered my usual large peg of Glenlivet single malt on the rocks and drink in hand I walked upto who seemed to be the manager of the bar. He was a Korean gent called Kim (aren’t they all) and mentioned my travel blog and said I wanted to review his bar and restaurant today. Admittedly Kim looked a tad puzzled if not unsure. I pulled up my blog on my phone and showed him my tales from Korea. That worked well and we connected instantly and he thanked and encouraged me to do the review of his property .

I ordered a large plate of Fish Fingers which where indeed large and rather crisp. The batter and the bread seemed to have been uniquely put together though I couldn’t put my ‘finger’ on what it was! I am a bit unsophisticated that way and smothered them with the excellent house tartare sauce and a delicious topping of mustard (which should have been Dijon but probably was not) to get my gastric juices going, whet my appetite as it were. After walking around a bit taking a few pictures of the bar and restaurant area, I got down to my second peg of some world class single malt. I was feeling chatty and started speaking with a German gent called Von. He mentioned he’d just finished a course at the Manipal University and had since been travelling to Kashmir, Jaipur and finally now at Manali. He shuffled his glasses and looked me in the eye. “Manipal University is a bit if a how do you say ‘donation college’ from the beginning. It was the university for rich parent’s and diplomat’s to send their kid’s, anyone could get into this place by paying a donation.” Von smiled as if getting that stigma off his chest “but I liked my stay there”.

The bar at the Johnson's — The bar at the Johnson’s

I took another fish from my bowl “and made some small talk about Klinsman the footballer and my personal belief that they had pilfered our swastika and see what they did to it! We chatted about Sanskrit and the German language. The Paris bombing’s cam up and I mentioned that it was a shame and a big tragedy and how my heart goes out to the victims. But what can you do to some one who is ready to blow himself up Von remarked. I was getting a bit hungry around now and I walked unto the bar tender and asked about the food. We had a brief discussion on the menu and I tried to sound knowledgeable and finally ordered Shepherd’s Pie. I guess I was suddenly feeling pangs for London during my childhood there where Shepherd’s pie every Thursday at the Christ’s College at Blackheath.

The pie was smooth and rich with the mashed potatoes and the meat was done and diced I felt to the right texture. I enjoyed it with oregano and chives with mustard and the tomato sauce. It was succulent with garlic bread to go with. The portions were all large, perhaps to appeal to the European palates and sizes!! I most certainly was full by the end of the meal and yes I am bit of an eater. I thanked the German, Von for his company and downed a bit quickly my third peg of the whiskey – perhaps deliberately insulting it. The tab was Rs 3500, about US$ 55 or € 50 in all at today’s rates I noted.

I turned to Kim and asked him for 20% DISCOUNT for reviewing his Bar on my blog. He looked reluctant but agreed to 10% discount and we shook on it. I am not saying I needed it but just felt like it was worth it. So there I was all full and satisfied by the hospitality of this cosy and wonderful Bar and Restaurant and their token discount. Johnson’s also a lodge and room’s are priced from Rs. 3500 to Rs. 5000(€ 72, $76) and of course the spa to relax in. All in all a very satisfying experience and oh yes also the 10% discount.

For Booking’s and further detail’s contact: Ranjeet Nagi the General Manager and reach out to them here: Tel:+91-1902-251523 : +91 9816045123 : +91 9816210302 and e mail: jhonsonslodge@gmail.com and I have linked to their web site earlier here.

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Ghatothkach and Hindimba Temple- Mahabharath in Manali

November 16, 2015

Searching for peace and new vistas as I have been and in between waiting for an audience with the spiritually might I thought I’d head up further into the hills to Manali and since I am in the vicinity. Manali is a small town in the Kullu Valleyat at an altitude of 2,050 m (6,726 ft). A popular tourist destination it is a sort of a gateway to the hills. In ancient times it was the start of a hill route for trade an commerce to Ladakh. It was a seven hour drive and I thought I’d hire a car for this leg of the journey. Got there dead tired and checked into the hotel Picadilly at Rs 2500, about US$ 40 per night. The food was passable but they seem to have no fish or lamb which I suddenly had such craving for seeing all the fishing venues here. I crashed as soon as I checked in and woke up late into the afternoon the next day. Ordered a meal of Chicken Soup and fired rice and set out by about five in the evening. The taxi driver said that only the Hidimba Devi temple would be open about now and perhaps we could look in.

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We drove up through the crowded marketplace to the temple to Hidimba at Manali. I was greeted by old women selling prasad and carrying rabbits for sale it seemed. I took a picture with the huge rabbit in my hand .

I strolled up the green garden path was the Temple and followed a huge line of devotee’s waiting for darshan. The temple was built like a pagoda with Yak horns lining the walls. Near the temple was the Ghatotkach rock. Ghatotkach a huge demon giant was the son of Bheem, one of the Pandav’s from the great Hindu mythological war story Mahabharata and himself huge and a female rakshasa (demon) called Hidimbi brother of Hidimba .

During the great war Mahabharat this giant demon came to the aid of the Pandava’s (the five righteous brothers) and decimated the Kauravas (the hundred ‘not so righteous’ brothers) armies. Duryodhan the eldest born among the hundred brothers panicked and asked Karna the brave warrior to use his Brahmastra (the divine weapon aka goin’ nuclear) to kill Ghatotkach. Karna was saving the Brahamastra (the nuclear option) for Arjuna one of the Pandavas and someone he especially despised but now he had to use it to kill Ghatotkach and he could use it only once.

Bellow flowed the vibrant Beas River as the sky light’s up with snow peaked mountain’s. After taking photo’s with Yak’s i strolled into the market enjoying chat and cold drink’s. Manali was just seeping in, I think I will cancel (nay reschedule) my trip to the Rohtang Pass and enjoy some trout fish here at Manali. My dear friend Arun Wali had suggested that I should try the local baked trout and that is just what I am now looking forward to next – a small culinary adventure perhaps! I am also keen to explore the Manikaran temples here also. So here’s three cheer’s to Manali.

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Shock & Sadness !

November 14, 2015

I know I am far away, really far from Paris in the peace of the mountains but I cannot believe the level of destruction that religious zealots seemed to have done there. Why I ask why, why? It is at times like this I contemplate the pointlessness of existence. Why do they do this ?

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The Gyuto Monastery

November 13, 2015

Woke up late today and on my follow ups with them realised that the Dalai Lama was out in Ludhiana. My sister then suggested “let’s goto the Gyuto Monastery instead and try if we can meet the Karmapa Lama , he is after all the number two to the Dalai Lama”.

We took the car and headed out for the monastery. At first look I notices that it was shimmering with golden colours. The Tibetans have a fascination with gold and most of the monasteries are coloured that way. I stepped into the prayer room and took a few pictures of monk’s sitting down and chanting with religious vigour from the ancient Buddhist texts. It could have been a scene from a madarssa or an ancient vedic temple, but well I was at a buddhist monastery. Little children scurried around in maroon robes and seemed excited to see me. I tried chatting with a few senior monks and asked them what was the concept behind the chanting however most seemed reluctant to speak with me. Perhaps trying to protect their ancient religious secrets from a foreign interloper.

In the middle of the prayer room just beneath the Buddha was the image of the Dalai Lama adorned with his yellow hat. The room had row’s of wooden benches on which the lama’s meditated and chanted . What were they trying to achieve I wondered? Nirvana, Moksha , salvation? To me these are yet words and what do they mean in term’s of feeling thought’s, ideas I really had no clue – or at least yet! I mean what is the physical manifestation of Nirvana ? How would I even know I had attained moksha if ever I did? What would it look like? What would it feel like ? How would I know that I have been enlightened and awakened ? These were question’s which were buzzing in my mind and off course I planned I would ask these to Karmapa and perhaps to the Dalai Lama.

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I went into the office and took an audience with Karmapa for the 20th of Nov at 9:30 in the morning. Mental note to myself – I better wake up – the drive is long and I have tended to oversleep a lot on this trip !!

Hope to see him and meet him with my question’s. Hope to find answers also! Stay tuned – perhaps there is salvation yet?