Fontainhas, also known as the Latin Quarter of Goa, has a rich and vibrant Portuguese heritage, blended beautifully with Indian culture. The area is known for its traditional Goan bars that serve feni and other local liquors. Its colorful architecture, which dates back to the Portuguese colonial era, is a major attraction. The neighborhood was established in the 18th century when the Portuguese built it to showcase their architectural style and cultural heritage.

Fontainhas falls under the UNESCO heritage protection zone and is a must-visit landmark for all tourists. Its bars and vibrant nightlife attract artists and singers from all over Goa. The area is also famous for its art galleries, traditional crafts, and Goan sweet shops. Overhanging balconies and winding narrow alleys define the look and feel of this quaint part of Goa. The wrought iron balconies, pop colors, and old villas are all a reminder of its Portuguese past. The best time to visit is during the Sao Joao Festival, which takes place as the monsoon arrives. The artistic spirit is alive in the bars, where creative minds gather over liquor and tantalizing conversations.

Bar Hopping in Fontainhas

I had company that evening—a young, single damsel named Rekha, who decided to show me around the bars of Goa. The first place we hit was Joseph’s Bar, a spot Rekha frequents often. She seemed to know everyone there, including the bartender. Joseph’s Bar is small, very local in look and feel, and quite basic, with wooden tables and benches. It has the charm of an intimate and rustic space.

Interestingly, the bar used to be a watch repair shop owned by M.H. Haldar. The name of the watchmaker is still prominently displayed on the wall. One of the rooms is filled with antique clocks—some encased in glass, others hanging on the walls. The bar is dimly lit, with most of the light coming from bulbs and iron hanging lamps, giving it a soothing, old-world atmosphere.

There’s a small balcony overlooking the street where one can sit, sip on a beer or feni, and watch people come and go. Upon entering, you’ll see the liquor-stocked bar and a waiter who takes orders in a register before serving. The chicken and bun, along with vegetable cutlets, are a must-have here—especially if you’re enjoying whisky or gin.

The crowd was lively. I noticed many young couples, all dressed up for a night of bar and party hopping. This was my first experience of Goa’s nightlife, and I was lucky to be in the company of Ani, his wife Soma, and their friend Rani, who knew Fontainhas like the back of her hand. She was, without a doubt, the guide for the evening.

To the right is Asian Bar, and from there, one can just get a little buzzed on beer and stroll through the alleys of Fontainhas without a care in the world—and that’s exactly what I did for most of the evening.
“You know, this is the best place to meet singles and the artsy crowd in Goa,” Rabin told me as we sipped on some J&B on the rocks.
Some of the women, including Rani, wore big red roses in their hair, which gave them an almost angelic appearance. Soon, I saw another young woman wear one too. The soft lighting, the music, the conversation, and the wafting cigarette smoke gave the air a distinct hue of intoxication. I had a beer and followed it up with whisky, which made me a little lightheaded. I couldn’t help but dance—found a corner for myself and just grooved for a while.

Joseph’s Bar prides itself on being a Feni Bar, and its menu card makes that very clear. It pays tribute to feni, the soulful drink that Goa is known for. The bar is dedicated to the ward of Sao Tome, whose patron saint has a chapel built nearby, close to the old post office. Joseph’s sources its food from local women, helping support their small businesses. The bar has been around since colonial times and was once run by Senior Joseph Pereira. In those days, spicy maad with uraq was served here.

“Let’s go to Antonio’s! They serve great cocktails—the melon one is especially good,” Rekha said, tugging me by the hand as we headed to our next stop.

Antonio’s Bar has indoor seating and a smoking area. Multicolored ribbons hang from the ceiling, which makes for a unique and eye-catching decor. There are wooden stools and comfortable chairs to relax in. The cocktails here are some of the best I’ve had, and there’s enough room to shake a leg too. The walls are colorfully painted, and even the restrooms are fancy and well-kept.

We wrapped up the night at Soho Bar, where we spent the last hour playing pool. We played three games—I lost them all, but thoroughly enjoyed myself. It had been a long time since I last played, probably back when I was studying in London almost thirty years ago.

I spent a good part of the night just walking around Fontainhas, soaking in the vibe, gazing at its many bars, and admiring a local church. Overall, it was a wonderful night that gave me a taste of Goa’s vibrant, single, and artistic side. We ended the night with a meal at Mac, and I truly felt like the good times were back again.

Prawn curry is by far my favourite gravy dish in Goa. I do like crab and lobster, but I find it very difficult to cut through the shell and get to the white meat of the damn creature. It feels like hard work, and in the end, you get very little meat. I’d much rather have shellfish. Along with that, the traditional caramel custard and Serradura make just the right dessert for someone who wants a taste of traditional Goan cuisine.

Prawn Curry

I’ve been going on long hikes—over 10 km every evening—and that has given me more strength. It also helps in building my back muscles. The good thing is that I’ve started doing dumbbell exercises, 5 kg each, for the forearms. That helps build overall body strength. But the most important thing is to keep losing weight and getting lighter and lighter.

The evening sea and the sun on the horizon can be very invigorating. At times, I’ve managed to sit on a wooden bench facing the bright turquoise sea, just being there—so still and one with nature. It was an out-of-this-world feeling.

One needs to let the surroundings seep within. There were flowers in full bloom as I walked across steep roads and winding alleys.

Goa has it all—sun, sea, gambling, liquor, and its own vibrant energy. The fish and fresh air really lift your spirits, not to mention the sun that’s always streaming from the sky.

We’ve been having a bit of a problem with our pool, as it has been closed for repairs and cleaning. With no pool to swim in, the last few days have felt a bit of a drag, as I’ve had to change my exercise schedule as well. I’ve now added brisk walks up and down the hilly terrain and roads just outside our apartment complex. The long walks along the sidewalks of Goa as the sun begins to set are very invigorating, and I highly recommend everyone enjoy a long one-hour walk every evening when in Goa.

The View to Infinity

Climbing up and down winding roads is one of the best ways to burn calories and work up a sweat. It’s a great way for me to prepare myself for my upcoming Everest Base Camp trek. I even managed to wander into a nearby housing society and was mesmerized to see their large infinity pool facing the sea and the hills beyond. The water seemed to cascade seamlessly, as if merging into the sea and the night sky.

I walked a lot that evening to burn off the extra calories, but what I really enjoyed was the fresh air and deep breathing as I climbed small hills or walked briskly through fishing colonies. I soaked in every moment of it.

One of the best parts was taking photos of fellow walkers and joggers just ahead of me on the sidewalk. The spring air and feel were everywhere in the city. I saw trees full of blooming flowers—some yellow, some orange, others red and purple. As the sun set, its rays fell on the blossoming lilies and flowers, and it looked as though the trees were dancing with joy.

So guys, here’s three cheers for Goa—the land of sun and sand!

Goa has been a revelation. I just got a call from a friend who suggested I should look for a flat in Goa and stay there permanently. But today was all about driving around Goa with Ani, as we headed towards his room and shack in a fishing village.

The drive was long, and I was behind the wheel the whole time. The most fun part was driving across the large bridge that connects part of the city with the port. I drove over it without my feet on the clutch or the gas—we literally free-wheeled across with ease. It was a slow ride, but fun, as I had both my legs in the air!

Fresh Fish and Dancing Under Banyan Trees

It was a hot April day and thank God we had the AC on the entire time—that saved us from the sweltering heat. There’s a lot of construction happening all over Goa: bridges and flyovers are being built, cables are being laid—the city is clearly in expansion mode.

We then drove through small Goan villages. The Hindu fishing village had old houses with verandas, and there was a tulsi plant in each veranda, just like in Vedic times. Hindus form the majority in Goa, followed by Catholics/Christians and then Muslims. You can spot many Shiva and Ganesh temples along the winding roads of Goa.

Finally, we arrived at Ani’s shack, which he is currently renovating. He plans to rent it out later. The shack is right next to the sea, with a fishing village nearby. Many foreign tourists come here to fish, and you can see fishermen’s boats tied around the bay area.

It was the perfect place for a brisk, long walk—and that’s exactly what I did. I wandered through the fishermen’s colony and into farmland, looking for shade under large trees. It was fun burning calories in the heat, though I soon got exhausted. Luckily, I had packed some oranges and dates, which helped me regain some energy.

After that, we headed straight to Karvelo’s Hut, a very local food joint and bar that serves freshly cooked seafood—prawns, lobsters, and fish. The owner, Anthony, brought in a fresh fish straight from the sea. His wife cooked and baked it right there. It took a while, but the fish was absolutely delicious.

I had four bottles of beer—it was the first time I felt truly relaxed. I devoured the entire fish and even enjoyed the prawn curry with rice.

After a late lunch, we headed back into the city. My eyes caught sight of huge banyan trees lining the road. Ani took some breathtaking pictures of me dancing under those gigantic trees, with their roots falling into the ground and anchoring deep into the soil. It was such a beautiful, almost dreamlike sight.

And how could we end the day without a touch of spiritual energy? On the way back, we stopped to pray and pay our respects at the Devi Bhagwati Prasanna Temple. It’s a massive temple, where many Goan Hindus come to worship and celebrate festivals.

All in all, it was a hectic day—but full of action, color, and sights from this wonderful city that’s already doing wonders for my health and well-being.

Goa has been getting a bit cooler as it rained the other day. The lazy elegance of the city of sand and sun has sunk into me as I wait for time to stop. But alas! I have only one more week left in the city.

It was a welcome change when my mate and I decided to go for lunch at a very famous heritage hotel in the city called Fort Tiracol. This is a luxury heritage hotel with its own restaurant and bar. One needs to climb a flight of stairs to get to the reception area, and on the ground floor is a huge chapel with a large statue of Jesus with both His hands flung in the air. There are seven rooms around the chapel area, each named Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, and so on, which I found very unique. However, I did not inquire why they were named after the days of the week. The luxury and deluxe rooms are priced between Rs 13,000 to Rs 15,000.

Fort Tiracol

One gets an entire view of the bay area, and it is worthwhile just standing on the balcony to enjoy the breeze and the sea. A lot of stone and old teak wood has been used to make the walls and the furniture of this particular heritage hotel.

Lunch was chicken, fish with wine sauce, and chocolate cake with hot sauce. It was scrumptious, and I paired the entire lunch with a large glass of beer—just the treat I needed! Although I have been focused on my fitness and diet, consuming a thousand calories a day, I still manage to treat myself to a rich meal once in a while.

The charm of Fort Tiracol is that it has that old Goa feel, and one gets transported to the ancient era of the Portuguese as soon as one enters the large iron gates that lead to the fort. Just at the entrance, one can see a large memorial—a huge gun made of wrought iron with a ribbon made from steel sheets tucked onto the gun. The memorial was built in honor of the Goan freedom fighters.

After lunch, we drove to a sculpture shop to look at some marble statues. Goans are very artistic, and Goa has always been a place for artists. From writers to filmmakers to fashion designers, Goa is a very artsy place, and the government has also put a lot of resources into promoting art and culture in the city. Its cafés, art galleries, cinema halls, and exhibitions make it the perfect place for artists to gather. Along with Mumbai, I would choose Goa as a place for artists and thinkers to hang around.

We have been doing a lot of driving around Goa, and I have been behind the wheel most of the day. After a long time, I am enjoying driving and even managed to do some go-karting in Ani’s car at an empty parking lot. I drove the car at full speed and swirled around the parking lot a few dozen times like kids do. It was fun, as I was driving once again after almost a decade.

It gets hot in the afternoon, but one can go for a swim at Tiger Beach just to escape the heat. I did manage to take an hour’s swim at the beach, and by the time we returned, it was almost seven in the evening. But it was a full day—we were busy from morning to night, and that was the energy of Goa.

I want to thank Mannat, the lovely and very intelligent daughter of my Axis Bank banker, Tarun Dhingra, for creating beautiful and highly artistic portraits from my pictures. These are not photoshopped but rather an artist’s interpretation of my photos, which I took with my iPhone. They are truly funny and incredibly cute.

Mannat

So, thank you, Mannat, for these wonderful murals of love that you have created for me and your dad.

Goa is full of fascinating restaurants, and I, for one, dined in one called Peep Kitchen. Peep Kitchen was started by two brothers, Gaurish and Amey. They opened the restaurant so they could sell their mother’s cooking to the local Goans. The name “Peep” has a meaning: it stands for “Place for Everything and Everything in Its Place.” The AC section of Peep Kitchen is very spacious, and there is light background music playing all the while. The waiters are well-dressed, very cordial, and helpful as well.

I quite enjoyed the food, especially the Mutton Kolhapuri and the Crab Curry. The joint also has the best Scotch and single malt whisky. One must try the caramel pudding. Peep is located in Panaji, on Teligaon Road in Goa. The fish here is the best, from prawns and lobsters to crabs. One can get all kinds of fish in gravy at Peep. The Fish Thali is also very reasonably priced at Rs 150. It’s very economical—one gets lots of rice, prawn curry, battered fish, oysters, and even shellfish in the grand fish thali.

Peep Kitchen

At the entrance, there is a black slate with the main menu written on it with chalk. As one enters, you face the grand bar where all the foreign liquor is stacked. You have waiters dressed in black, taking orders and running around to serve the guests. The decor and look of the restaurant are very pleasing to the eye, with subtle shades of color used. Turquoise blue is the primary color of this particular restaurant. There is a large space in front of the restaurant for car parking, so one need not worry about that issue.

The portions are large, and I had to have my mutton curry packed. But what I liked most was that the gravies were not overtly spicy, and I felt they were just right. Generally, I am not able to enjoy very spicy food as it doesn’t suit my palate anymore, but the mutton gravy was perfect for me. I quite enjoyed it with parathas and a portion of naan. I skipped having the single malt as I had already bought a bottle of Glenlivet for Rs 6000. If one has a double peg of single malt whiskey at a restaurant, it costs Rs 2000. It’s much better to buy a bottle, and it’s much cheaper as well.

Yes, I am back—well and truly back—in Goa after spending the last few weeks in Delhi. It took me a few days to settle back into my Goa routine, as my mind was still occupied with thoughts of Delhi and an investment deal, I had just closed. But there was still a bit of restlessness in my heart. The only way to shake it off was to find a new dining spot in Goa—a restaurant called Mom’s Recipe.

This is a typical Goan restaurant that serves moist, succulent chicken vindaloo, along with crab curry and jumbo prawns. Mom’s Recipe has a charming ambiance and well-designed interiors. There is a vintage Lambretta parked just outside the restaurant, like a showpiece or a trophy of some sort. I even managed to get a picture clicked on the scooter, which is nearly sixty years old. The Lambretta was first manufactured in Italy in 1974, and it is displayed in all its glory in front of Mom’s Recipe.

Mom’s Recipe

The interiors were beautifully done, and I tucked into a delicious chicken vindaloo with rice, while my mate Ani enjoyed fish and prawns. We ended our meal with a delightful caramel pudding. During my visit, I had the chance to chat with the owner—a gentle lady who runs two outlets of the same restaurant in Goa. I introduced myself and showed her my blog.

“Madam, I am a travel blogger, and I would love to cover your restaurant and promote it on my blog,” I told her. She listened with keen interest, and by the end of my pitch, she was convinced. In return for my promotion, she even offered me a 15% discount on the food!

The food was truly traditional Goan, with puddings and serradura as desserts.

Here are some pictures of this quaint restaurant, Mom’s Recipe, which is situated in Milroc Colina, near a heritage venue. The restaurant has been serving authentic Goan cuisine for over twenty years. It was founded by Maria Suzette and Rony Floriano as a tribute to their mother. The concept is unique—as the name suggests, the restaurant has hired many mothers as part of its staff, which is why it’s called Mom’s Recipe.

The owners have resisted the temptation to turn it into a multi-cuisine restaurant. Instead, they honor the traditional cooking of mothers and grandmothers, who have been preparing tantalizing prawn curries for generations. In a heartwarming touch, each dish is named after the chef who first created it.

Mom’s Recipe was also awarded the Top Restaurant Award in 2017.