During my regular walks to Banaras Hindu University, I was struck by a huge hoarding across the main Lanka Street. The hoarding advertised the magic show of the famous magician Sikandar, who was performing his magic show full of mystery and intrigue. The hoarding had the face of the magician wearing an outlandish gown which sparkled and shone. I looked at the hoarding and thought that this magic show was worth watching. I was writing a new novel called The Clown and the Little Girl, which was based around a circus, so I thought I might get some ideas from the magic show.

I decided to watch the evening six o’clock show. I wanted to see some local magic, Indian style. The show ticket was three hundred rupees; they also had a front row sofa for the family, which was one thousand. After buying the ticket, I walked in and was offered corn and juice by the many hawkers who were hanging around. The stage was large, and the seats were placed in an organized manner. On the left side of the stage was the audio-visual setup and the music. To me, it seemed that apart from just magic, there was going to be much song and dance in the show as well—and I was right.

Jadugar Sikandar Ka Maya Jal

The great Sikandar walked on the stage as the curtains fell back. The man was wearing a flashy silk gown with a large headgear. He spoke to the audience through a microphone and started off with some simple and easy magic tricks. The basic ones: taking a rabbit out of the hat, pulling out flowers from a stick, making a deck of cards vanish. But as the show moved on, the tricks got more complicated and, should I say, daring.

What added flavor to the show was the lighting and the special effects. Suddenly, the curtains fell, and a huge dinosaur walked out from behind and started chasing the magician, who ran for cover. This was fun, and I liked the 3D effect; it was very real. I was getting excited and clapped like mad after each trick.

The great magician Sikandar asked someone from the audience to come up on stage to help him with his great disappearing trick. I was more than happy to volunteer. I ran onto the stage and introduced myself as a Bollywood actor who had worked in many films. One by one, I was asked about my films, and soon the audience realized they had seen me with Shah Rukh Khan in Rab Ne Bana Di Jodi. The audience clapped—now they had a celebrity among them. I was asked to test a huge wooden box in front of me and also eat all the locks and chains that would be used to lock up the magician in the box, which I duly did. Soon, the magician was locked inside the box, and I, along with the helpers, locked him in. Within minutes, the magician walked towards the stage from behind, dressed like a policeman. That was a neat trick! I had just locked him up—so how did he manage to escape the chains and locks? I was surprised. “You are a double! You are a twin brother of Sikandar. I know the secret of your magic trick—it’s like in Dhoom 3, it’s not magic,” I said. That was indeed the highlight of my show. I also danced on stage for the audience. It was great fun, and the entire thing was captured on my phone. Those would be great memories for me.

The magic tricks became more intense. I almost fell back in my seat when he cut a girl in half and then twisted her head around. After the interval, we had the clown who entertained us by eating an entire sword. The entire show had great lighting and visual effects, with even smoke machines used to enhance the intrigue and effect of the magic. Thus, the show also gave the feel of being a sort of opera. There was a gorilla who appeared on the stage and just started dancing like mad. The great Sikandar would play with doves and make them vanish into thin air. Each trick had been choreographed perfectly, and it’s clear that there was a show director who had directed each of the acts.

But cutting a girl in half was the boldest trick. The show also had a nationalistic touch and feel, with kids running around with the Indian flag. All in all, it was a full-time pass. The audience could take snaps with Sikandar at the end of the show and could also make a video with him. I realized that I too had admirers in the audience, as people and families walked up to me for my autograph and to take selfies with me. That was an ego boost for me, and I came back from the show, which lasted over two hours, fully charged and invigorated. It was a total Paisa Vasool show for me, and I recommend it to all. If you are in Varanasi, you should watch Jadugar Sikandar Ka Maya Jaal.

The Sri Lanka Buddhist Temple is a delight. It is located on a narrow lane that features many Buddhist temples built by other Buddhist countries, and Sri Lanka indeed is the land of the Buddha. The temple is well-lit, and when we visited, they were holding a ceremony where monks were singing hymns and preaching sermons to a large gathering of men and women, most of whom were dressed in white—either in white sarees or white robes. There were also Sri Lankan dancers and musicians playing and singing songs, and I managed to snap some photos of them.

Jambudvipa – Sri Lanka Buddhist Temple

The inner rooms and chambers housed a huge golden Buddha statue, with many high priests and monks sitting and chatting in the various other rooms of the building. The walls were covered with photographs of great saints and monks who had been patrons of the temple.

The temple also symbolizes peace and solidarity between India and Sri Lanka.

Cambodia Monastery

As the name suggests, this is a temple built by the country of Cambodia to honor the Buddha. It is very unique because the entire temple and complex are made from white stone and marble, and it has a beautiful tapering roof that makes the temple stand out. When I entered the Cambodian Monastery, I was greeted by a monk in yellow robes who was happy to be photographed. The temple is also home to a huge golden Buddha statue that stands out due to the beauty and calmness of the Buddha’s face.

After its construction, the monastery was operated by the Indo-Khmer Theravada Buddhist Monastery Trust, founded in 2005. It was built to showcase Cambodian tradition. The single-room central shrine is elevated on a raised plinth, surrounded by a colonnade with marble capitals and colorful kinnara holding up the roof. The finishes of the temple use the traditional Cambodian color palette of beige, brick red, and gold.

The temple is open from 8:00 AM to 6:00 PM for rituals and prayer ceremonies.

The Golden Temple is a symbol of great beauty and architectural brilliance. It houses the most exquisite golden statue of Buddha and is very peaceful. The inner sanctum contains large drums and many small bronze Buddha statues, all coated in gold. There are monks sitting on the floor chanting mantras. One can quietly walk around the temple, enjoying the beauty of its many wall paintings and murals. The Golden Temple is located inside Sarnath city, on an offbeat track, so you might have to search for it a bit, as it is not on the travel itinerary of most auto-rickshaw drivers. In the middle of the temple complex stands the great Ashoka Chakra, which stands out prominently. There is also a café by the name of Vajra Café where tourists can relax and sit.

The other famous temple, which was also our last sightseeing spot in Sarnath, was the Korea Temple. This temple was built to increase solidarity and friendship between India and Korea and has been constructed in the traditional Korean style of architecture.

Golden Temple and Korea Temple: Sarnath

Inside the Korea Temple, there is a large stone pillar marked as the monument of friendship between the two nations, commemorating the exchange along the Silk Route. Again, it is a very silent and meditative place. In fact, the entire city of Sarnath has a very tranquil feel—understandably, as this is the land of Buddha.

I enjoyed walking on the footpaths of the city, exchanging words of wisdom with the bhikkhus and Buddhist monks, and at times, enjoying sugarcane juice with them. The food in the city is mostly vegetarian, and the cost is minimal. For non-vegetarian food, one can visit UP 65. You can travel around the city for just Rs. 250, which allowed us to cover three to four places every day. It’s amazing that I was enjoying Sarnath so much; after spending five days in the city, I still felt there was a lot more to see and experience.

The city walls are full of paintings and wall art that depict stories from the life of Buddha and his teachings, along with the sermons he gave to his disciples. Sarnath is the second of the Buddhist Char Dham that I have visited so far, and it is a deeply spiritual city.

I also recommend that most travelers who come here stay in an ashram or in a place with lots of open gardens, as standard hotels and guesthouses can feel quite suffocating.

This is the most wonderful place for nature lovers. The garden is located just behind the Chaukhandi Stupa and has recently been opened after extensive renovations. The garden is lush and green, filled with stone sculptures. It is very beautiful, and all the shrubs are well-pruned, which is soothing for the eyes. One can relax and walk on the green grass. There are stone benches all around the garden where visitors can sit, relax, and enjoy the view. There are also shaded areas under trees where travelers can sit and meditate.

The Garden of Spiritual Wisdom

There are stone tablets scattered throughout the garden, inscribed with famous sayings and the essential philosophy of Buddha, along with his teachings, including the Eightfold Path. For a layperson, this is very educational, as one can learn about the fundamental ethos of the Buddhist faith and its core philosophy.

One can sit under the trees and enjoy a chat with fellow travelers. It is very calm and peaceful to stroll through this garden, and just like its name suggests, one can attain a great deal of spiritual wisdom here.

There is also a separate section dedicated to Ayurvedic herbal plants in the garden. The Ayurvedic system of traditional Indian medicine practices harmony with nature, with simplicity and contentment as the keys to well-being.

A must-see for all visitors to Sarnath.

The Sivali Vietnamese Temple in Sarnath has one of the tallest statues of the meditating Buddha, which is over 70 feet in height. It is also called the “Gulabi Temple” or the Pink Temple by the locals in the area due to the color of the pink stone used to construct the temple.

It also features a large statue of Ashoka the Great and the meditating monk Guttasilo Mahathero, with the words *”Pray for Good Health and a Long Life”* inscribed under the statue, which is made of yellow stone.

Sivali Vietnamese Temple: Sarnath

The temple has a single pillar known as the Pagoda. It is built in Vietnamese architectural style, with a brass bell hanging from the top. There is also a small guest house for monks to stay. According to the legend, a monk named Doan Lan Tan built this temple in 2014. A monk in Vietnam had asked him to go to India and build a Buddha temple, for which he would be paid a salary of one dollar. Doan initially refused, as he felt that one dollar was too little for survival in a distant land. However, after a while, he became restless and could not sleep, feeling guilty as if he were not fulfilling a duty. One night, he dreamt of the same monk, who told him that he had not fulfilled his life’s mission and that if he wanted to break out of the cycle of life and death, he needed to build a beautiful Buddha temple in India. The dream inspired Doan, who realized that this was his mission in life.

Doan sold his house and car and traveled to Sarnath in India. There, a monk showed him a barren piece of land and asked him to build the temple on it, promising that this would allow him to attain salvation and break free from the cycle of life and death.

Doan then returned to Vietnam to raise funds for the temple. He met with businessmen and government officials and raised money through crowdfunding. In 2009, the first stone was laid to begin the construction of the Sivali Vietnamese Temple.

If you visit, you will likely meet Doan, wearing an orange monk robe. He looks after the upkeep of the temple, often doing gardening and maintenance work. If you’re lucky, he might also give you a tour of the temple and explain the best spots to take your photos. Doan doesn’t speak much, but his presence is very calming. “Where are you from?” Doan asked me as I took my rounds of the temple. We had a quiet chat, and I felt inspired by a man who had dedicated his life to a single cause: to build the temple. He lives a very frugal life with hardly any possessions, yet he seems very content.

I highly recommend that travelers visit this temple and meet Doan, who will be happy to share his inspiring story with you.

The Sarang Nath Temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva. It is unique because it has two Shiva Lingas in its inner temple sanctum. There is also a golden and brass statue of Nandi just before one enters the temple. One needs to climb a flight of stairs to reach the temple. At the entrance, one can see a Pipal tree with threads tied to its trunk.

Just before this Shiva temple, there is a large water tank called the Shiv Kund, around which one can take a leisurely walk. Devotees can also take a dip in the Kund. It is said that anyone who visits the holy temple of Sarnath is blessed by Shiva and Parvati. Devotees with skin ailments are said to be healed, and couples who have difficulty conceiving will be blessed with children by praying to Shiva and his brother-in-law, Sarang Nath. To perform a Jal Abhishek, one has to descend 44 steps from the Shiva Kund.

Sarang Nath Mandir: Sarnath

The story behind the two Shiva Lingas in the Garbhagriha is that the first Linga was established by Sarang Rishi, while the second was installed by Adi Guru Shankaracharya in an Argha. It is here that Lord Shiva blessed his brother-in-law Sarang and ordained that he too would be worshipped alongside Him. It is said that during the Sawan months, Shiva resides here with his consort, Parvati. The temple also serves as a storehouse of ancient jewels, gold, and ornaments that Sarang brought as gifts for his sister Parvati and her husband, Lord Shiva.

The golden Nandi also has its own myth and legend. It is believed that if one prays to Nandi and whispers their wish, Nandi will always fulfill the devotee’s desire.

This ancient and medieval temple attracts devotees throughout the year, especially during Maha Shivaratri, which is celebrated with great enthusiasm at the temple.

The original name of the temple is *Nichigai Suzan Harinji Temple*. It is run by the Indo-Japanese Society and has a distinctly Japanese design and aesthetic. The temple features a unique roof made of bamboo that slopes outward. The roof curves up at the eaves, giving it a calming, tranquil feel. The architecture and appearance of this temple are similar to the world-renowned temples in Kyoto, Japan. The entire place exudes a soothing, meditative atmosphere.

Dharam Chakra Indo-Japan Temple, Sarnath

There is a statue of the Buddha, made from black stone, positioned under a tree. I took some great pictures there, capturing a meditative pose. The inner sanctum of the temple houses a massive wooden statue of the Buddha in a reclining posture. It is very meditative, with a beautifully designed head, and the words *Na Mu Myo Ho Ren Ge Kyo* are inscribed underneath.

The wood used to create the statue is sandalwood, which fills the air with a vibrant, calming fragrance that enhances the temple’s serenity. On the left side of the temple stands a grey stone pillar with Japanese characters inscribed on it.

The temple is located in the Baraipur locality of Sarnath, approximately 1 km from the Sarnath Railway Station.

It is open from 6 a.m. to 6 p.m., and entry is free. A must-see for anyone visiting the city of Lord Buddha.

The city of Sarnath is known as **Rishi Patna**, a place where sages descended on Earth. It is the site of **Mrigadava**, the Deer Park. It is here that the Buddha gave his first sermon on Dhamma to the world. He taught two discourses here: the **Dhammacakkappavattana Sutta** and the profound **Anattalakhana Sutta**.

Deer Park: Sarnath

The Deer Park is 2 km from Sarnath Railway Station and 8 km from Varanasi Junction. It is also known as **Isipatana**, a spiritual place and a deer sanctuary. It also houses birds and ostriches, which are kept behind barbed wire and in cages, making it difficult for me to take good photographs of the animals in the zoo.

Spread across 33 acres of lush green land, Deer Park was established in 1956 to educate people about wildlife conservation, protection, and the rescue of wild animals. The zoo comprises a large deer enclosure, a reptile enclosure, and a pond aviary. There are 90 spotted deer and six blackbucks that roam fearlessly in the large, lush, natural environment. Additionally, one can also see emus, crocodiles, turtles, as well as birds like white-necked storks, black-necked storks, painted storks, and white stork pelicans. There is a large water body on the north side of the mini zoo where a boating facility is provided.

**Timings:** 8:00 AM to 5:30 PM
**Entry Fee:** Rs. 10 for Indians, Rs. 50 for Foreigners

Today was our third day in Sarnath City, and we were now fully immersed in Buddhist religion and tradition. I have been quite impressed with the city; it is a place that has a lot of facilities for tourists. Apart from daily tour buses, efficient tour guides, ATM facilities, and banks, what impressed me most were the signages and how efficiently all the Buddhist temples were labeled. The history and background of each temple and stupa were clearly engraved on stone tablets and signboards, which described the importance of each site in the city.

Wat Thai: Sarnath

Today we started our excursions from the Wat Thai temple. “Wat” means temple in Thailand. Wat Thai is a Hinayana Buddhist temple established in 1971. It is a testament to Thai temple design, including a unique roof in the traditional Thai style. The temple houses a Buddha statue made of Chunar sandstone, which stands 80 feet and 9 inches tall. This statue is mounted on an octagonal base with carvings and is capped by a lotus flower placed at the feet of the Buddha. There are running fountains with blooming lotus flowers as one approaches this gigantic statue, which is so large that it can be seen from the road itself.

The entire place is surrounded by lush green lawns, where one can enjoy a leisurely walk. The complex is peaceful and meditative, and I enjoyed walking all around the Buddha statue.

I took a few rounds of the temple, sipping Coke and eating ice cream. The other major building in the complex is the shrine, also known as the Vihar. It is built from red brick and sandstone, with a sloping rooftop and gable ends. The chamber contains a large statue of the Golden Buddha, surrounded by several smaller Buddha statues.

There is no entry fee, and the temple is open from 8:00 AM to 5:00 PM. What I enjoyed most was the silence and spaciousness of this complex. The entire complex spans across 2.5 acres of land. The original idea for the temple was conceived by Rashmi Shasan, a Buddhist monk of Indian origin.

The cutting and polishing of the huge sandstone Buddha took five years. This is a must-see temple for all tourists visiting Sarnath. It is also a great place to take pictures and enjoy the silence of the Buddha.

The Chaukhandi Stupa is situated 8 km away from the Cantt Railway Station in Varanasi. It is a protected monument of national importance and was declared so in 2019 by the Archaeological Survey of India.

It was built during the Gupta period, in the 4th and 5th centuries, and is the site where Buddha met his first disciples. The stupa has a rectangular shape with steps leading upwards. It is made from red baked brick and is very strong and sturdy.

One of the unique features of the Chaukhandi Stupa is its massive rectangular shape atop a terraced plinth. This plinth is also rectangular, while the actual tower itself is octagonal. This architectural pattern is highly uncommon for the period in which it is believed to have been built.

Similarly, the mystery surrounding the visual style of the stupa is quite intriguing. Stupas associated with Buddhism are generally dome-shaped, such as the famous Sanchi Stupa. However, this stupa is distinctly octagonal, making it unique among Buddhist stupas.

The Chaukhandi Stupa

Even the celebrated Chinese traveler Xuanzang (Hiuen Tsiang) wrote about the stupa in the 7th century AD. The height of the stupa is 93 feet, and it is constructed entirely from red brick and stone. It has three diminishing terraces, each about 12 feet high and 12 feet broad. Each terrace is supported by an outer and inner wall, with several cross walls to reinforce the structure. The outer walls of the terraces are ornamented by a series of niches separated by pilasters. The images of the Buddha, deep in meditation, clearly indicate that the structure was built during the Gupta period. The octagonal brick tower crowning the stupa is a Mughal addition, erected in 1588 AD by Govardhan, the son of King Todarmal.

The stupa looks particularly stunning during the evening sunset. It is surrounded by lush green grass and lawns, where one can take an evening stroll while admiring the monument. Visitors can view the monument by paying a nominal fee of Rs 20 for adults.