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Anuj Tikku
Continue ReadingThis is one of the oldest temples in the city, blending Malayali and Banarasi cultures. It is located next to the weavers’ colony near Bengal Tola Inter College. It is said that the Tilabhandeshvar Shiva Linga grows by a nominal size every year, and this growth has been happening for centuries. I managed to get a glimpse of the large Linga kept in the inner sanctum of the temple.
If you’re lucky, you may also witness the Arti performed by the priest in the inner sanctum of the temple. There are idols of Maa Parvati, Ayyappan, Bhairava, and even Krishna and Hanuman. But at the center of it all is the magical Linga of Tilabhandeshvar Maha Dev. I was fortunate to witness the Arti, where the priest burns a large lamp and takes the flames all around the temple. The aroma of the sandalwood and the musical essence of the Arti fill the air, and one feels intoxicated by the religious nectar. There is chanting of mantras and hymns are sung. You can also walk up to the Nandi bull and whisper your wishes or desires into its ear. It is said that Lord Shiva will hear your wishes if whispered through His vahana, Nandi the bull.
It is said that Mata Sharda also spent some time here in this mandir. This temple dedicated to Lord Shiva was built in the 18th century and is 500 meters from the River Ganges. In fact, one can climb up to the temple, and from the back, you can see the ghats and all the boats and jetties. People can walk down to the ghats, which are a short distance away.
The Linga appeared about 2500 years ago and grows by the size of a sesame seed every year. It is now one and a half feet tall and three feet in diameter. Maha Shivratri, Ayappan Pooja, Navratri, and Nag Panchami are the important festivals celebrated here by the temple’s devotees.
The walls of the temple have marble tablets with ancient verses and mantras inscribed on them. There are also hymns and mantras praising Lord Hanuman in the temple. All in all, it was a very pious and enriching experience for me.
॥ अथ दुर्गाद्वात्रिंशन्नाममाला ॥ दुर्गा दुर्गार्तिशमनी दुर्गापद्विनिवारिणी। दुर्गमच्छेदिनी दुर्गसाधिनी दुर्गनाशिनी॥ दुर्गतोद्धारिणी दुर्गनिहन्त्री दुर्गमापहा। दुर्गमज्ञानदा दुर्गदैत्यलोकदवानला॥ दुर्गमा दुर्गमालोका दुर्गमात्मस्वरूपिणी। दुर्गमार्गप्रदा दुर्गमविद्या दुर्गमाश्रिता॥ दुर्गमज्ञानसंस्थाना दुर्गमध्यानभासिनी। दुर्गमोहा दुर्गमगा दुर्गमार्थस्वरूपिणी॥ दुर्गमासुरसंहन्त्री दुर्गमायुधधारिणी। दुर्गमाङ्गी दुर्गमता दुर्गम्या दुर्गमेश्वरी॥ दुर्गभीमा दुर्गभामा दुर्गभा दुर्गदारिणी। नामावलिमिमां यस्तु दुर्गाया मम मानवः॥ पठेत् सर्वभयान्मुक्तो भविष्यति न संशयः॥
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“Jangma” means one who knows Shiva, and “Wadi” means the place of residence. This Math is now a Dharamshala where religious seekers come to stay as they explore the holiest city of India. The Math was built way back in 8 CE and is very old in its architecture and tradition. It is also a library of ancient scriptures and books like the Shankar Purana, the Vedas, and the Upanishads. Religious scholars can buy these books as well. It is a place where the poor can experience true religion and bathe in its wonder and mystical beauty. The rooms are old, but they are clean, and one can spend the night here for less than three hundred rupees.
The main gate of the Math is painted in grey, gold, yellow, and red. It is very artistic, and one can see it glow from afar. One has to climb a flight of steps to reach the main hall of the Math. Inside the Math are several rooms for guests to stay. The inner entrance has a flight of steps flanked by two grey elephant statues, which look majestic. There were enough people around, some praying to the idol of Lord Hanuman on the left-hand side of the Math. The Math is located on Jangmawadi Road and can be reached by bicycle rickshaw or electric auto.
For a spiritual seeker who wants to take their time and leisurely explore Kashi but has a very tight budget, this is the kind of place to stay. In fact, you get the real flavor of India in Mathas like these, where the masses come to bathe in ancient spirituality.
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This is a very ancient temple in Varanasi, and it is very surreal as most of the deities are carved out of jet-black stone. It gives the temple a dark feel and an aura of the occult. This is a Shiva temple, and there is a huge lingam that devotees pray to. There is a brass bell that is rung during the Maha Aarti. During the Aarti, there is an orchestra of dancers and musicians who play the drums and cymbals to enhance the ceremony. The temple bells ring in the air, and the sound of the Maha Aarti can be very healing.
There are scores of Shiva lingas all around the temple, and devotees can be seen lighting diyas and praying to the good lord. Again, the walls of the temple have white marble tablets where mantras, hymns, and verses are inscribed, mostly in Sanskrit and sometimes in Hindi. Devotees offer khichdi, bel patra, Ganga jal, and milk to Lord Shiva, and the lord then blesses them with good fortune and luck.
The Kedareshwar Mandir is very closely linked to the Kedarnath temple in Uttarakhand, which is also a Jyotirlinga. The ruler Aurangzeb attacked the temple, but still, the lingam remains. There are knife marks on the stone Nandi that bear testimony to this attack by the Mughal ruler. If one visits this temple, it feels like trekking right up to Kedarnath in Uttarakhand. This temple is part of the twelve Jyotirlingas of Shiva, and it is a river temple as it is on a hilltop overseeing the ghats of the Ganges river. One can walk right up to get a view of the ghats. The central lingam is a shapeless stone, and it is said that Vishnu and Lakshmi are in one half of the lingam, and Shiva and Parvati are in the other half.
It is said that this temple resides on the third prong of Shiva’s trident. In the middle of the central courtyard are four temples with domes. Pilgrims take a holy bath in the river Ganga and then climb a flight of stairs right up to the temple to pray to Lord Shiva.
The legend has it that during an arduous journey, Gauri felt hungry, so Kedar went looking for food but was killed by a tiger. Hearing this, in dismay, Gauri jumped into a pond. At that very place where she jumped, King Utkal built a temple, which was called Gauri Kedareshwar Mandir.
An Aarti takes place every day at 6:30 pm, so devotees and travelers must try and catch the Aarti as it is very invigorating.
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This is one of the oldest temples in Varanasi, dedicated to Lord Shiva, also known as Mahadev, the god of destruction. The temple was built in the 12th century and is very ancient. It is located next to a large water kund. The most eye-catching feature is that one of the Shivlingas is positioned beneath a very old and large Pipal and Bargad tree.
The temple is located in the southern part of Varanasi, near Kandwa Pokhra. It is devoted to Shiva, and many of the lord’s devotees come here to offer prayers and perform yagna. The temple was built by the Garhwal rulers and is constructed in the Nagar style of architecture. The water pond was built in the 18th century by Rani Bhawni Devi. Invaders tried to destroy this temple, but it could not be destroyed due to the power of Lord Shiva, and it stands as one of the most prominent temples in the city.
I managed to walk around the pond. One has to be careful here as there are many monkeys around, and some of them can be ferocious, though most of the time, they are harmless. There is a huge white marble tablet affixed to the temple wall, which has the famous mantra, Rudrashtakam, inscribed in Sanskrit verses. Rudrashtakam is a powerful meditation mantra to evoke and please Shiva. It was written by the Bhakti poet Tulsi Das.
I was fascinated by the fabulous sculptures carved into the dark black stone walls of the temple. Some of the statues of gods and goddesses were etched out of stone, yet the images are sharp and detailed. The inner sanctum of the temple has a black stone Shiva Linga, and I was able to sit in one of the poojas as well. A family was performing a Maha Mrityunjaya Japa, and I offered my prayers to Lord Shiva. It was very peaceful at that moment, with the calm waters of the pond. The temple had a deep spiritual ambiance.
As I walked out of the temple, I was surprised to see another temple just opposite it, called the Virupakshagan Temple.
Rudrashtakam Mantra:
नमामीशमीशान निर्वाणरूपं
विभुं व्यापकं ब्रह्मवेदस्वरूपम् ।
निजं निर्गुणं निर्विकल्पं निरीहं
चिदाकाशमाकाशवासं भजेऽहम् ॥१॥
The Batuk Bhairav Mandir is located near the Kamacha Devi temple, north of Varanasi. Batuk is the child of Bhairav, who is also known as the gatekeeper of the city. Bhairav is a form of Shiva, and it is said that, like a watchman, he protects one of the oldest and most ancient cities in the world, Kashi.
“Batuk” means child, and this temple is revered by the tantric and Aghori traditions. There are pumpkins and lemons scattered around large trees. The pumpkins are chopped, symbolizing a sacrifice to please the lord. The temple was renovated by King Balwant Singh in the 16th century. The temple holds the power of all the nine planets, and devotees who visit are freed from all evil and planetary problems.
This temple brings good luck to those suffering from court cases or legal problems. A visit to this temple can help rid a person of such troubles. It also provides strength to fight off enemies and brings good fortune. There are many dogs walking around the temple; most of the time, they just lie around. During the Arti, when Bhairav is invoked, these dogs make a sound resembling the sound of a conch shell being blown by a priest.
Bhairav was the one who cut off Brahma’s fifth head and carried it out of guilt for committing a crime. Only when he was absolved of this guilt did he put the head down. The outer walls of the temple have carvings in black stone and granite that depict all the fearsome forms and looks of Kal Bhairava. On the inner wall of the temple are signs and designs, like circles and triangles, with the word “B” written on them in Hindi. These are yantras, which are a source of energy. Just by touching the symbol on the wall, one can absorb the energy of the yantra. It brings good fortune and luck.
There is also an Akhand Deep in the inner sanctum, which burns forever. The oil from the deep has healing qualities and helps cure dog bites. By rubbing the oil on dog bites, the bites are healed, and the person is cured. The oil has medicinal and healing properties, and if applied to wounds, it helps in their healing.
The form of Bhairav here is sattvic, gentle, and beautiful. Anyone who visits this temple is rid of all worldly obstacles in their life. Batuk Bhairav is the king of tunes, so the vows associated with the temple are also linked to art, music, and meditation.
According to legend, Batuk Bhairav killed a demon named Abad, who had gained a boon that only a five-year-old child could kill him. It was Batuk, the child of Bhairav, who finally killed the demon, who had wreaked havoc in all three Lokas.
A must-visit place for those interested in seeing old temples or who are saddled with an ugly court case.
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Dhanwantri is the Physician of all the Devas and the God of Ayurveda, as mentioned in the Puranas. The Mrityunjay Mandir is dedicated to Lord Shiva, but there is also an idol of Shane Dev in the temple. What attracts most devotees from far-flung areas is the Koop, or well, called the Dhanwantri Koop, located in the middle of the temple, in its very courtyard. This well contains water with medicinal qualities, as Dhanwantri is the Deva of medicine. According to legend, Dhanwantri threw all his medicines into the well. It is believed that drinking from the well’s water can cure skin ailments and other diseases. People drink and even bathe in the water, as it is believed to have healing and purification qualities.
I drank from the well and even rubbed it on my genitals, as the skin in that area had become scaly and itchy. I hoped the water would heal that part of my body. There are Shiva lingas that people worship as well. The walls of the temple are adorned with paintings of Ganesha and other Devas. There is wall art depicting scenes from the stories of the Puranas. The only disappointing thing was that there was a lot of litter around, and the temple was not very clean. I think the local priests can improve the situation by cleaning the temple and removing the rubbish and litter around the walls and floor.
This temple is located in Dara Nagar, north of Kashi Vishwanath. It is quite a distance and requires a long auto ride through the bustling traffic of Varanasi, but it’s a journey worth making just to drink the water from the well. I sat down with the local pandits who smeared haldi paste and painted my forehead with a red tika. Shiva is the dominant idol of the mandir, but there are also images of Kali, Rama, and Hanuman.
Mrityunjaya Mahadev means the lord who triumphs over death. Devotees come here to perform the Maha Mrityunjaya Jaap and seek the blessings of the Shiva Linga, which is believed to protect them from unnatural death.
The well water, which is said to heal all diseases, makes this temple a must-visit for all tourists who come to Varanasi. Devotees can also carry the well water in bottles and drink it regularly to enjoy its healing effects and qualities.
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This is the most photographed temple in the city, and the reason is that it leans from the back, with its inner sanctum mostly submerged under the waters of the Ganges throughout the year, except during the summer months. Also known as the Leaning Temple of Varanasi, it is often compared to the Leaning Tower of Pisa in Italy. The temple has a height of 13 meters and is significantly tilted at the back. Imagine getting some great pictures of this ancient temple, which is dedicated to Shiva.
The temple is located near Manikarnika Ghat, and it leans by nine degrees. Unlike the other temples, it is built at a very low level, and the garbhagriha (inner sanctum) remains perpetually underwater for most of the year.
The temple is also known as Kashi Karvat, which refers to its unique leaning feature.
It is said that the temple was constructed by a servant of Raja Man Singh for his mother, Ratna Bai, over five hundred years ago. As soon as it was built, the man proclaimed that he had repaid his debt to his mother. Immediately after saying these words, the temple tilted by nine degrees. This is the legendary story behind the leaning temple.
All in all, this temple adds to the mystique of the Ghats and is a must-see for most travelers to this great holy city.
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It was important for me to get a real feel of Varanasi, which is why I decided to embark on a journey around the ghats of the city. I stay quite close to Assi Ghat, which is one of the best places to be. It is situated on the banks of the Ganges, and one can take a boat across the river from here. That is the best way to see and enjoy the view of the ancient ghats of this city. Although I have taken this boat ride many times before, the fun part is that each time, it feels like a brand-new experience for me.
I wanted a long ride and paid Rs 1500 to the boatman. He asked me to hop into the boat, which was very basic. Fortunately, we had life jackets for safety, and I made sure to wear one. The boat wobbled a bit when I jumped in, but I soon got my balance and a feel for the boat. I found a safe and quiet spot and settled there. Soon, the boatman started to row, and I felt lightheaded, drawn to the sight of many migratory Siberian birds. They were flying overhead, and their flight path was low enough for me to get some clear pictures of them.
They were all over the river, hundreds of them, white like doves, flying overhead with carefree abandon. These birds fly all the way from Siberia to the temperate climate of Varanasi. I loved taking pictures of them while my friend Tiwari chatted with the boatman.
The ghats looked very neat and clean, as did the water of the Ganges. It was obvious that the town was undergoing a cleaning drive. I could see huge boats cleaning and filtering the water of the Ganges. These boats, like massive motorized vessels, would gulp large volumes of water, purify it, and then expel the trash, leaving behind clean, filtered water. It was clear that the city was preparing for the Maha Kumbh, which will begin in January 2025. I had never seen a machine that could purify river water just by floating on top of it, but this was a novel experience.
The boat gave me a clear view of the ghats, and I got a panoramic view of the Ganges, with hundreds of colorful boats floating around.
After forty minutes, we decided to get off the boat and walk across to the most important ghat of Varanasi—Manikarnika Ghat. Being here felt like staring death in the face. There were four or five funeral pyres burning, and at least half a dozen bodies waiting to be cremated. I managed to climb up to the ghat to see the dead being cremated. It is said that for thousands of years, funeral pyres have been burning here, and this cycle of death has never stopped. This is the holiest cremation ground of the city. Only men can visit this ghat, and the entry of Hindu women is forbidden. There are huge logs of wood piled on top of each other, as wood is always needed for cremation. One can see huge stacks of wood waiting for a new body to arrive. Indeed, being here is like facing death up close and personal. It is a very humbling experience, and I waited for a while just to absorb the atmosphere.
More than 28,000 bodies are cremated at this ghat every year. It is a place where you can sense and feel your mortality, and one can see how fickle life is. Sadashiv Naik, with the help of Peshwa Baji Rao of Maharashtra, paved the ghats in 1730. This ghat is also known as the Mahashmashan, as anyone cremated here is believed to receive moksha (liberation from the cycle of rebirth).
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This temple is also called the Pram Hans Temple and is situated on the banks of the river Ganga. It is a short auto ride from BHU and is a very modern temple, built in the ancient Sanatan tradition. The temple houses idols of almost all gods and saints from around the world, including Jesus and Moses. It has three floors, and in front is the Hanuman Temple, which features an idol of Lord Hanuman tearing open his chest to show his devotion to Lord Rama. The temple has a large porch, and one can see the Ganga flowing through the many windows that adorn the temple. It is a place for families to wander, worship, and simply have a good time.
The second floor has a unique feature—a den where one can enter the mouth of a huge idol and walk inside. Within this den, there are idols of Kali and Shiva. From the third floor, there is a great view of the Mother Ganga. The temple has marble floors, and I was given “bhabhuti” to rub on my forehead after I had prayed to Lord Rama.
This is a different type of temple, and to me, it felt more classical in its look and feel. The idols are beautifully stacked together in their chambers. Devotees can also donate to the temple, as there are many donation boxes around the temple complex. If you are feeling bored in Varanasi, it is definitely worth visiting the Sanatan Vishwa Darshan Mandir.
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