Dhanwantri is the Physician of all the Devas and the God of Ayurveda, as mentioned in the Puranas. The Mrityunjay Mandir is dedicated to Lord Shiva, but there is also an idol of Shane Dev in the temple. What attracts most devotees from far-flung areas is the Koop, or well, called the Dhanwantri Koop, located in the middle of the temple, in its very courtyard. This well contains water with medicinal qualities, as Dhanwantri is the Deva of medicine. According to legend, Dhanwantri threw all his medicines into the well. It is believed that drinking from the well’s water can cure skin ailments and other diseases. People drink and even bathe in the water, as it is believed to have healing and purification qualities.

Mrityunjay Mandir and The Dhanwantri Koop

I drank from the well and even rubbed it on my genitals, as the skin in that area had become scaly and itchy. I hoped the water would heal that part of my body. There are Shiva lingas that people worship as well. The walls of the temple are adorned with paintings of Ganesha and other Devas. There is wall art depicting scenes from the stories of the Puranas. The only disappointing thing was that there was a lot of litter around, and the temple was not very clean. I think the local priests can improve the situation by cleaning the temple and removing the rubbish and litter around the walls and floor.

This temple is located in Dara Nagar, north of Kashi Vishwanath. It is quite a distance and requires a long auto ride through the bustling traffic of Varanasi, but it’s a journey worth making just to drink the water from the well. I sat down with the local pandits who smeared haldi paste and painted my forehead with a red tika. Shiva is the dominant idol of the mandir, but there are also images of Kali, Rama, and Hanuman.

Mrityunjaya Mahadev means the lord who triumphs over death. Devotees come here to perform the Maha Mrityunjaya Jaap and seek the blessings of the Shiva Linga, which is believed to protect them from unnatural death.

The well water, which is said to heal all diseases, makes this temple a must-visit for all tourists who come to Varanasi. Devotees can also carry the well water in bottles and drink it regularly to enjoy its healing effects and qualities.

This is the most photographed temple in the city, and the reason is that it leans from the back, with its inner sanctum mostly submerged under the waters of the Ganges throughout the year, except during the summer months. Also known as the Leaning Temple of Varanasi, it is often compared to the Leaning Tower of Pisa in Italy. The temple has a height of 13 meters and is significantly tilted at the back. Imagine getting some great pictures of this ancient temple, which is dedicated to Shiva.

The temple is located near Manikarnika Ghat, and it leans by nine degrees. Unlike the other temples, it is built at a very low level, and the garbhagriha (inner sanctum) remains perpetually underwater for most of the year.

Ratneshwar Mahadev: The Leaning Temple of Varanasi

The temple is also known as Kashi Karvat, which refers to its unique leaning feature.

It is said that the temple was constructed by a servant of Raja Man Singh for his mother, Ratna Bai, over five hundred years ago. As soon as it was built, the man proclaimed that he had repaid his debt to his mother. Immediately after saying these words, the temple tilted by nine degrees. This is the legendary story behind the leaning temple.

All in all, this temple adds to the mystique of the Ghats and is a must-see for most travelers to this great holy city.

It was important for me to get a real feel of Varanasi, which is why I decided to embark on a journey around the ghats of the city. I stay quite close to Assi Ghat, which is one of the best places to be. It is situated on the banks of the Ganges, and one can take a boat across the river from here. That is the best way to see and enjoy the view of the ancient ghats of this city. Although I have taken this boat ride many times before, the fun part is that each time, it feels like a brand-new experience for me.

Facing Death: Manikarnika Ghat

I wanted a long ride and paid Rs 1500 to the boatman. He asked me to hop into the boat, which was very basic. Fortunately, we had life jackets for safety, and I made sure to wear one. The boat wobbled a bit when I jumped in, but I soon got my balance and a feel for the boat. I found a safe and quiet spot and settled there. Soon, the boatman started to row, and I felt lightheaded, drawn to the sight of many migratory Siberian birds. They were flying overhead, and their flight path was low enough for me to get some clear pictures of them.

They were all over the river, hundreds of them, white like doves, flying overhead with carefree abandon. These birds fly all the way from Siberia to the temperate climate of Varanasi. I loved taking pictures of them while my friend Tiwari chatted with the boatman.

The ghats looked very neat and clean, as did the water of the Ganges. It was obvious that the town was undergoing a cleaning drive. I could see huge boats cleaning and filtering the water of the Ganges. These boats, like massive motorized vessels, would gulp large volumes of water, purify it, and then expel the trash, leaving behind clean, filtered water. It was clear that the city was preparing for the Maha Kumbh, which will begin in January 2025. I had never seen a machine that could purify river water just by floating on top of it, but this was a novel experience.

The boat gave me a clear view of the ghats, and I got a panoramic view of the Ganges, with hundreds of colorful boats floating around.

After forty minutes, we decided to get off the boat and walk across to the most important ghat of Varanasi—Manikarnika Ghat. Being here felt like staring death in the face. There were four or five funeral pyres burning, and at least half a dozen bodies waiting to be cremated. I managed to climb up to the ghat to see the dead being cremated. It is said that for thousands of years, funeral pyres have been burning here, and this cycle of death has never stopped. This is the holiest cremation ground of the city. Only men can visit this ghat, and the entry of Hindu women is forbidden. There are huge logs of wood piled on top of each other, as wood is always needed for cremation. One can see huge stacks of wood waiting for a new body to arrive. Indeed, being here is like facing death up close and personal. It is a very humbling experience, and I waited for a while just to absorb the atmosphere.

More than 28,000 bodies are cremated at this ghat every year. It is a place where you can sense and feel your mortality, and one can see how fickle life is. Sadashiv Naik, with the help of Peshwa Baji Rao of Maharashtra, paved the ghats in 1730. This ghat is also known as the Mahashmashan, as anyone cremated here is believed to receive moksha (liberation from the cycle of rebirth).

This temple is also called the Pram Hans Temple and is situated on the banks of the river Ganga. It is a short auto ride from BHU and is a very modern temple, built in the ancient Sanatan tradition. The temple houses idols of almost all gods and saints from around the world, including Jesus and Moses. It has three floors, and in front is the Hanuman Temple, which features an idol of Lord Hanuman tearing open his chest to show his devotion to Lord Rama. The temple has a large porch, and one can see the Ganga flowing through the many windows that adorn the temple. It is a place for families to wander, worship, and simply have a good time.

Sri Sanatan Vishwa Darshan Mandir: Varanasi

The second floor has a unique feature—a den where one can enter the mouth of a huge idol and walk inside. Within this den, there are idols of Kali and Shiva. From the third floor, there is a great view of the Mother Ganga. The temple has marble floors, and I was given “bhabhuti” to rub on my forehead after I had prayed to Lord Rama.

This is a different type of temple, and to me, it felt more classical in its look and feel. The idols are beautifully stacked together in their chambers. Devotees can also donate to the temple, as there are many donation boxes around the temple complex. If you are feeling bored in Varanasi, it is definitely worth visiting the Sanatan Vishwa Darshan Mandir.

Sant Ravi Das was a mystic poet and religious saint deeply connected to the Bhakti movement of the 15th and 16th centuries. He was a revered guru across Uttar Pradesh, Bihar, and much of central India. He was born in 1433 and was a social reformer who fought against the caste system, advocating for equality for women and their rights. He was born in a small village called Gobardhanpur, near Varanasi. The legend has it that Ravi Das met Guru Nanak and was deeply inspired by the Sikh faith. The devotees of Ravi Das consider their faith to be an offshoot of Sikhism, and Ravi Das himself is seen as a Guru in Sikhism.

Sant Ravi Das Samarak Park: Varanasi

Ravi Dassia is a religion that originated as an offshoot of Sikhism and also has its own holy book called Amrit Bani Guru Ravi Das Ji.

Ravi Das was a Chamar and a cobbler, but in his later years, he spent most of his time with saints, aghoris, and gurus on the banks of the Ganges. He spent much of his life wandering and traveling across northern and central India. He said that the only way forward for the Chamar community was to take their own spiritual path and form their own religion based on the teachings of Ravi Das. He resisted the Hindu saints and criticized the caste system. He was the messiah of the Dalits and always worked for their upliftment.

Ravi Das often spoke about a promised land called Begumpura, where he wanted to live with his disciples. This would be a perfect city where everyone would be equal, and there would be no suffering or despair. He wrote about this utopian land in many of his poems.

Ravi Das was also worshipped and revered by Meera Bai, who sang Bhakti songs for her Guru. She was his true Bhakta.

The famous park is built near the Sant Ravi Das Ghat and spans more than 25 acres. It is a lush green park with a huge statue of the saint at the center. The park is open to local visitors and is a pilgrimage spot for the followers of Ravi Das.

The Ravi Das Ghat is at the southernmost tip of Varanasi and is the largest ghat in the city. It is an important pilgrimage spot, with visitors coming throughout the year to pay homage. I even managed to chat with an Australian tourist who was not too pleased when I told him the score of the India vs. Australia cricket match. “We won! We beat you guys in Perth,” I told the Aussie, and then I shared how I played the didgeridoo in Sydney. The man was quite pleased with my act and went on his way cheerfully.

The statue of Ravi Das is situated on a marble altar with steps leading up to a dais where the statue is placed. The park is lush and well-kept, with paths and walkways. It felt peaceful just walking around the park.

Many people come here on the day of Dev Diwali, and one can also take a helium balloon ride around the park to get a bird’s-eye view from the sky.

I generally have dinner at a South Indian restaurant on Lanka Road called Sagar Ratna. It’s perfect for light South Indian dishes, but what was most fun today was a visit to a very famous paan shop in the city called Keshav Tumbul Paan Bhandar. It was the best paan I have had in ages. The owner was an old, stout man who was an expert in preparing the softest, most mouth-watering paan.

“You see, our paans are different. You don’t need to chew them; just put them in your mouth, and they will melt. These are so gentle that they will just melt in your mouth. These are the most delicate paans in the world,” said the man, who was the younger brother of the founder.

Benaras Ki Shaan: Keshav Tumbul Paan Bhandar

“We have been in operation for fifty-eight years. I am the third generation. See, even the Prime Minister Modi ji eats my paan; he gets them packed as well. We also supplied paans at Abhishek Bachchan’s wedding, and my elder brother even served a paan to Amitabh ji. All politicians love our paan. We have also served Rajnath Singh and Singhal Sahib. Our motto is simple: we only use the best ingredients, and they are safe and clean. We place a lot of emphasis on purity. We serve Maghai paan and even Sada Patta. We have lots of variety here.” The man informed me, rather excitedly, that I was taking pictures of the inside of his shop.

There was a picture of the owner with Modi ji, the pride of his shop, and there was a garland around the picture. The shop was very simple and basic, but it had some space. It was neat and clean, with all the ingredients neatly placed in their containers. There is a large portrait of Lord Balaji inside the shop. The name of the shop is written in Hindi on the outside wall, so that no one can miss it.

I made sure my paan was served rolled in silver foil, which just added to the taste. In seconds, the paan melted in my mouth, and I was encouraged to have it all in one gulp. So, I just put the whole paan in my mouth, and it melted. Within minutes, my food got digested, and I was feeling very light and invigorated. It gave me a high, and I felt relaxed and excited. The paan and its ingredients had a pleasant impact on me, and I loved the taste. I recommend it to all who visit the city: don’t miss the paan at Keshav Tumbul Paan Bhandar.

Munshi Premchand was the greatest Hindi writer who came from the region of Uttar Pradesh. Born on the 31st of July, 1880, in the village of Lamhi in Varanasi district, he was originally named Danpat Rai. He wrote extensively in Urdu and Hindi under the pen names “Nawab Rai” and “Premchand.” The man became a beacon of Hindi literature in the north; his novels and stories resonated with the common man. He wrote extensively about the plight of the poor and the underprivileged, capturing the pain of the common Indian woman in his stories and books.

The house where he spent most of his life writing as the “Kalam Ka Sipahi” is where I decided to go today with my friend Tiwari ji. It was quite a distance, as there was a huge traffic jam. It took us more than an hour’s ride in an auto to get to the house of the great man. Premchand lived here with his second wife, Shiv Rani Devi.

The writer spent his life writing against imperialism and tried to awaken the masses with his novels and writings. His works depicted the society of that era. His collection of stories, Soz-e-Watan, was banned by the imperialist government, and its copies were confiscated and burned.

Situated on the Varanasi-Azamgarh road, the two-story house is now a national monument and a sort of museum that showcases the great writer’s books and many of his literary works, along with the numerous awards and cups he won for his novels. There is a room full of Premchand’s belongings. I particularly liked the man’s hookah, which was placed in a corner along with his lanterns.

Munshi Premchand Samarak: Lamhi

There are posters and paintings on the walls, and there is also an office of the caretaker of the place. I even managed to chat with him and promised to give him some of my own books to display in the house.

The great writer’s library is also open for visitors. All the old and antique copies of Premchand’s books are on display. In front of the library is an open courtyard where stands the white statue of Premchand, with his birth and death dates carved on a plaque. I even managed to see a charkha hanging from the wall, indicating that the writer was also influenced by the philosophy of Gandhi.

One can take a flight of steps and wander onto the first floor, which leads to the open balcony. It is an old-fashioned house with the architecture of the late eighteenth century. When I walked out of the house after my excursion, I was pleased to see the Munshi Premchand Shodh Evam Adhyayan Kendra, which is a kind of literary institute imparting knowledge to the youth of the city and the district.

We spent an hour just exploring the place and enjoying the view. The government has allocated Rs 10 crore to update the museum so that tourists and fans of the writer can enjoy his works and celebrate his life for ages to come. There are ongoing plans to create a virtual museum just behind the great man’s house.

I had one more day to spend in Varanasi before we moved further into UP. It was thus important for me to visit one of the most ancient sites of this city, called the Lolark Kund.

This Kund is a rectangular pond and water body that dates back to 1000 AD. “Lolark” means the trembling sun, and the ancient site traces its origins to the patronage of the Gahadwala Kings, who would bathe in the waters of this mighty pond and make charitable offerings to the Sun God.

Lolark Kund: Varanasi

The site is mentioned in the Scriptures and even the Mahabharata. It is one of the twelve solar deities. The Kund measures 23 meters from north to south and 15 meters from east to west.

Three long staircases descend into the Kund from the north, west, and south. One has to climb 35 steps down to reach the water. It is said that the water has mystical qualities: if a woman bathes in it, she will be able to bear a child. The water can also cure many skin ailments, so the water of the Kund is considered blessed. The water remains clear and pure throughout the year.

The eastern side of the wall is segmented by a deep cut, allowing the water to flow into the well and then into the Ganga.

The brownish-red stonework was created by Rani Ahilya Bai, the Queen of Malwa, who repaired and maintained the site throughout the 18th century.

In the Hindu month of Bhadrapada, many devotees come here to bathe in the water and ask for the blessings of the Sun God. After bathing, they perform a ritual in which they leave a fruit or vegetable and clothing in the pond. This is to signify that they will not eat that fruit or food until their wish is granted. Most mothers ask for a male child after the ritual.

There is also a workshop where artisans make the most colorful idols and statues of many Hindu deities from wood. I was really drawn to a very colorful wooden statue of the multi-headed Hanuman Ji. There was also one depicting the Virat Roopa of Krishna. These were made by locals, and the statues would be bought by wholesalers and large distributors. I wanted to buy one, but I was told that all the items were for wholesale only.

All in all, I enjoyed the experience and recommend it to all travelers who come to Varanasi.

During my regular walks to Banaras Hindu University, I was struck by a huge hoarding across the main Lanka Street. The hoarding advertised the magic show of the famous magician Sikandar, who was performing his magic show full of mystery and intrigue. The hoarding had the face of the magician wearing an outlandish gown which sparkled and shone. I looked at the hoarding and thought that this magic show was worth watching. I was writing a new novel called The Clown and the Little Girl, which was based around a circus, so I thought I might get some ideas from the magic show.

I decided to watch the evening six o’clock show. I wanted to see some local magic, Indian style. The show ticket was three hundred rupees; they also had a front row sofa for the family, which was one thousand. After buying the ticket, I walked in and was offered corn and juice by the many hawkers who were hanging around. The stage was large, and the seats were placed in an organized manner. On the left side of the stage was the audio-visual setup and the music. To me, it seemed that apart from just magic, there was going to be much song and dance in the show as well—and I was right.

Jadugar Sikandar Ka Maya Jal

The great Sikandar walked on the stage as the curtains fell back. The man was wearing a flashy silk gown with a large headgear. He spoke to the audience through a microphone and started off with some simple and easy magic tricks. The basic ones: taking a rabbit out of the hat, pulling out flowers from a stick, making a deck of cards vanish. But as the show moved on, the tricks got more complicated and, should I say, daring.

What added flavor to the show was the lighting and the special effects. Suddenly, the curtains fell, and a huge dinosaur walked out from behind and started chasing the magician, who ran for cover. This was fun, and I liked the 3D effect; it was very real. I was getting excited and clapped like mad after each trick.

The great magician Sikandar asked someone from the audience to come up on stage to help him with his great disappearing trick. I was more than happy to volunteer. I ran onto the stage and introduced myself as a Bollywood actor who had worked in many films. One by one, I was asked about my films, and soon the audience realized they had seen me with Shah Rukh Khan in Rab Ne Bana Di Jodi. The audience clapped—now they had a celebrity among them. I was asked to test a huge wooden box in front of me and also eat all the locks and chains that would be used to lock up the magician in the box, which I duly did. Soon, the magician was locked inside the box, and I, along with the helpers, locked him in. Within minutes, the magician walked towards the stage from behind, dressed like a policeman. That was a neat trick! I had just locked him up—so how did he manage to escape the chains and locks? I was surprised. “You are a double! You are a twin brother of Sikandar. I know the secret of your magic trick—it’s like in Dhoom 3, it’s not magic,” I said. That was indeed the highlight of my show. I also danced on stage for the audience. It was great fun, and the entire thing was captured on my phone. Those would be great memories for me.

The magic tricks became more intense. I almost fell back in my seat when he cut a girl in half and then twisted her head around. After the interval, we had the clown who entertained us by eating an entire sword. The entire show had great lighting and visual effects, with even smoke machines used to enhance the intrigue and effect of the magic. Thus, the show also gave the feel of being a sort of opera. There was a gorilla who appeared on the stage and just started dancing like mad. The great Sikandar would play with doves and make them vanish into thin air. Each trick had been choreographed perfectly, and it’s clear that there was a show director who had directed each of the acts.

But cutting a girl in half was the boldest trick. The show also had a nationalistic touch and feel, with kids running around with the Indian flag. All in all, it was a full-time pass. The audience could take snaps with Sikandar at the end of the show and could also make a video with him. I realized that I too had admirers in the audience, as people and families walked up to me for my autograph and to take selfies with me. That was an ego boost for me, and I came back from the show, which lasted over two hours, fully charged and invigorated. It was a total Paisa Vasool show for me, and I recommend it to all. If you are in Varanasi, you should watch Jadugar Sikandar Ka Maya Jaal.