Today I was in a buoyant mood. I woke up earlier than usual and was glad to find that the clothes I had given for washing were finally dry — quite a challenge, as it has been raining non-stop here. After my usual breakfast of eggs and bread, I went in for a quick shower.

As we drove out, I got a real feel of the city. Mist was everywhere — spread over the hills, the roads, and the markets of Sohra. It was cool, wet, and drizzling throughout. My eyes soon fell on a church, and I stopped to take a closer look.

It was the Nongsawlia Presbyterian Church — old, gothic, and dignified. The main gates were shut, so clearly there was no service happening at the time. Like many other churches in this region, it stood as a living testament to the zeal of the Christian missionaries. The ancient nature-worshipping traditions of the locals had given way to Christianity — the old faith taking on the garb of a modern, organized religion.

Nongsawlia Presbyterian Church

This is considered the oldest church in Meghalaya. Established by the Welsh missionary Thomas Jones in 1846, it was destroyed in the great earthquake of 1897 and rebuilt the very next year, in 1898. Even today, it remains a peaceful place, perched quietly on a hilly road.

Just opposite the church lies the Nongsawlia Cemetery, established in 1845, making it one of the oldest in the state as well.

A little further ahead, we came across a bridge and the lakes beyond, offering sweeping views of the grassy landscapes. The rain was relentless — just another normal day in Cherrapunji.
“You know sir, that’s Bangladesh, right there on the other side,” my guide pointed out.

I looked beyond, and as far as the eye could see, there were rocks, water gushing through them, and large lakes and puddles spread across the land. The bridge we crossed looked weak at first glance, but strong enough to hold. Beneath it, a stream flowed steadily, while mist hung in the air and the rain fell in a gentle, pitter-patter rhythm.

It was an exquisite scene — a true feast for the eyes. Hunger soon caught up with me, so I bought some chips and a cola from one of the many roadside shanty shops scattered across the area. It’s always best to carry cash here, though I mostly relied on Paytm, which worked perfectly well for me.