We decided to move early today, as in the afternoon it gets a bit hot. I wanted to see the Dhamek Stupa up close and personal, so I chose to venture inside the complex where the excavations were first made that unearthed the Stupa and the Ashoka Pillar. The national emblem of India, the Ashoka Pillar, can be seen in this compound. It is almost 50 meters in height, and along with the Stupa, it was a gift from Ashoka to the Buddhist faith.

 The Dhamek Stupa and The Ashoka Pillar: Sarnath

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There is a distinct difference between a Stupa and a Pillar. The Stupa is a religious structure with relics stored inside, and it has religious symbolism. A column is a pillar made of stone with engravings, primarily used for administrative and commemorative purposes. The Dhamek Stupa was built in 249 B.C. by Emperor Ashoka the Great of the Mauryan Dynasty during his reign when he ruled the entire Indian subcontinent.

It is believed that the Stupa contains the ashes of the Buddha. The name Sarnath comes from the word *Saranganatha*, meaning “lord of the deer.” The Stupa is in the middle of an excavation site. Sarnath remained abandoned until 1834, when Alexander Cunningham excavated the site and restored it for tourists. One can see the entire site for a fee of Rs 100. There are a few restaurants nearby, as well as shops selling water and cold drinks. The best way to explore the excavations is on foot.

The Dhamek Stupa is cylindrical in shape and built with red bricks and Chunar sandstone, with the lower part being entirely covered with carved stones. Probably, the base of the Stupa dates back to the Ashokan period. It contains eight niches facing eight directions, which possibly contained images of Buddha. The walls of the Stupa are ornamented with magnificently sculpted floral and geometrical designs that manifest a high level of craftsmanship on stone during the period of the Gupta Dynasty.

There are also Banarasi sari shops I visited—it was a novel experience watching the artisans make silk saris on handlooms. It is quite an art form.

Buddha delivered his first sermon, called *Dhammacakkappavattana Sutta*, or the “Setting in Motion the Wheel of Dharma.”

I also saw the great Ashoka Pillar, which is part of the excavation site. The pillar is made of sandstone and is almost 15 meters in height. It has a cylindrical shaft, a bell-shaped base, and a capital that consists of four lions, a wheel, and a bull, a horse, a lion, and an elephant. The four lions face the four cardinal directions and symbolize the power and majesty of Ashoka’s rule. The wheel represents the dharma, or the law of nature, that Ashoka followed and propagated. The bull, the horse, the lion, and the elephant represent the four noble truths that Buddha taught. The Ashoka Pillar is also the source of the national emblem of India, which features the four lions and the wheel.

The best time to visit Sarnath is from October to March, as the weather is cooler, and it is best to explore the site on foot. The place is full of tourists from the East who want to study and practice the teachings of Buddha.