1. Agartala to Unakoti

I got up early today and decided to venture out for breakfast. As I sat at the reception mumbling to myself—yes, my self-talk has indeed increased over the last few months—I realized it gets less when I am on the road chatting with people, but when I am alone in my room, I start mumbling again.

I struck up a conversation with a young man who was also a YouTuber. He seemed quite pleased to meet an author and blogger, and I shared some tricks of the trade with him. I was actually waiting for my cab guy to come and pick me up, as we had planned to travel to the rock caves of Unakoti, which is about a five-hour drive from the city of Agartala.

Unakoti: The Lost Mythic City of Tripura

Hidden amongst the dense forests of northern Tripura lies Unakoti—an ancient site of mystery, myth, and breathtaking artistry. Known as The Angkor Wat of the East, this site is not only a marvel of rock-cut sculpture but also a pilgrimage destination wrapped in legend and mysticism.

The meaning of Unakoti is “one less than a crore”—in other words, 99,99,999. According to local belief, the site was once home to exactly that number of stone carvings. The idea that a crore gods and goddesses once gathered here gives the place an aura of both grandeur and incompleteness.

The legend of Unakoti is tied to Lord Shiva. Once, on his way to Kashi, Shiva is said to have stopped here for the night with his entourage of gods and goddesses. He instructed them to wake up at dawn and continue the journey. But when morning came, all except Shiva remained asleep. Angered, Shiva cursed them and turned them into stone. As a result, Unakoti is now filled with thousands upon thousands of rock-hewn deities, frozen in time. But the count fell short by one of a crore—hence the name.

Agartala to Unakoti

This legend transforms the entire site into a frozen mythic city, as though the gods themselves are still sleeping in the jungle.

Unakoti is famous for its massive bas-relief sculptures carved directly into rocky cliffs. The most imposing image is the Unakotishwar Kal Bhairav—a 30-foot-high face of Lord Shiva with elaborate headgear. Surrounding it are smaller carvings of Ganesha, Parvati, and other deities from Shaivite and Shakta traditions. Intricate floral and geometric motifs suggest artistic influences ranging from the 8th to 9th century CE, though some archaeologists argue the site’s roots may be even older.

Unlike regular temples, Unakoti has no main sanctum or shrine—the mountains themselves are the temple walls. The weathered rock, moss-covered carvings, and dense greenery give the place an eerie yet divine atmosphere, especially during sunrise and the monsoon rains.

2. Spiritual and Cultural Importance

Pilgrimage: Every year, Unakoti becomes a hub of devotion during the Ashokashtami Festival, when thousands of pilgrims gather to worship. This is also a protected heritage site under the Archaeological Survey of India. It represents a unique blend of ancient Shaivite traditions and tribal forms of worship.

If one climbs the steps, there is a huge tree with a Shiva linga at its base. It seems the site is still used by local tribes for nature worship and tantric rituals. Visiting Unakoti is as much about the journey through Tripura’s forests and hills as it is about the site itself.

The site is located 178 km from Agartala, the state capital. However, the highway road is in poor condition—bumpy, dusty, and full of craters—which is why it took us so long to reach the carvings. The path winds through lush green landscapes, small villages, and hills that open up into the forested valley where the carvings lie.

Standing amongst towering faces of gods etched into stone cliffs, one feels as though they have stepped into a forgotten mythological city reclaimed by nature. For trekkers, history lovers, and spiritual seekers, Unakoti is truly a journey into the mystical heart of the Northeast.

Unakoti: A Living History

Despite decades of study, much about Unakoti remains a mystery. Who created these giant sculptures? Was it originally a tribal worship site? Whatever the answer, the place continues to enchant.

Unakoti is where myth and history blur—where stone whispers the stories of gods who once walked among men.