The day began with a lazy morning haze. It was Sunday — the day of Shivratri. In Gujarat, especially in Ahmedabad, this is a major celebration. It is a public holiday, and families visit Shiva temples to offer prayers and celebrate the festival by drinking bhang and rose milk. There is music, dancing, and sharing of festive foods in honour of Lord Shiva.

“Ap se meeting ho gaya mera. I have told my family — they want to see you and meet you. Sir, I have become your fan now. We have been travelling for two weeks. Aap bahut shaant aadmi ho, just like Shiva, Bhola Baba,” said Vidhani, my taxi driver who had been taking me around Gujarat.

“Sir, aap gyani ho. Bahut shanti mila aapke saath. Really, you are great. Main kisi customer ko apni family se nahi milata hoon, but you are a special man.”

He continued to praise me warmly, and I smiled, humbled by his affection.

Koteshwar Mahadev Temple

We were heading to the famous Koteshwar Mahadev Temple to join the Shivratri celebrations and enjoy bhang-laced thandai. I had two glasses at the temple and then gulped down a large one on the way back. It felt like a vibrant local mela, with sugarcane juice stalls lining the road. My favourite was the thandai — sweet, cooling, and festive.

Vidhani Family and Shivratri Celebrations

The crowd was large, as Shivratri marks the divine wedding of Lord Shiva and Goddess Parvati. It was a family celebration — joyous and energetic. Amid the hustle and bustle of the mela stood the grand Shiva temple. We soon joined the queue for darshan.

Inside, I saw a beautiful Nandi idol, with milk and honey flowing as prasad. I bowed before Shiva and whispered my wish into Nandi’s ear, following tradition. I sat on the floor for a while, wandering around the courtyard and lawns, taking photographs. I was especially intrigued by the temple carvings.

Dedicated to Lord Shiva, the temple houses a large black Shiva Lingam in its inner sanctum. Situated on the banks of the Sabarmati River, the temple offers respite to pilgrims and devotees alike. If you are near Motera or Bhat village, it is a must-visit for its intricate carvings and serene ambience.

The temple is located on the northern outskirts of Ahmedabad, making it an easy drive from the city centre. As I approached, the pink sandstone structure rose gracefully against the blue sky, its towering shikharas adorned with detailed sculptures of deities, elephants, and floral motifs. The entrance was decorated with garlands and flowers, creating a festive yet calming atmosphere.

I arrived in the morning, and the place was buzzing with devotees queuing up for darshan — families with children and locals offering prayers. Standing at the base of the intricately carved pillars, I could not help but admire the craftsmanship. The walls featured rows of tiny elephants and peacocks, symbolising prosperity and grace in Hindu iconography.

Compared to grand complexes like Swaminarayan Akshardham Gandhinagar, Koteshwar Mahadev is relatively smaller — but that intimacy makes it special, though weekends and festivals bring lively crowds.

Inside the Sanctum

Inside, the main sanctum houses the Shiva Lingam, surrounded by smaller shrines dedicated to Parvati, Ganesha, and other deities. The air was filled with the scent of incense and the ringing of bells during the aarti.

I joined the queue while my driver took some photographs. There was a mix of young and old, all barefoot, moving quietly through the temple and its courtyards. The temple’s riverside location gives it a certain mystique.

One highlight was posing against the well-carved walls and later drinking milk from the marble Nandi idol as prasad. The temple complex also has a spacious garden and sitting area where devotees can relax and pray peacefully.

An Afternoon with the Vidhani Family

Afterward, I spent much of the afternoon with Vidhani’s family. I met his wife and children, and later visited his home where I shared lunch and fruit with them. I also met his mother, uncle, and aunts.

It was a modest home in a lower-middle-class neighbourhood of the city. But they were proud people who looked after me with warmth and sincerity. Hospitality here did not depend on wealth — it came from the heart.

I even climbed up to the roof to take some photographs of the surrounding area, reflecting on how travel often brings unexpected connections. What began as a taxi ride had turned into a shared celebration of faith, family, and kindness.

Shivratri that year was not just about temples and thandai — it was about human connection.