This is a very ancient temple in Varanasi, and it is very surreal as most of the deities are carved out of jet-black stone. It gives the temple a dark feel and an aura of the occult. This is a Shiva temple, and there is a huge lingam that devotees pray to. There is a brass bell that is rung during the Maha Aarti. During the Aarti, there is an orchestra of dancers and musicians who play the drums and cymbals to enhance the ceremony. The temple bells ring in the air, and the sound of the Maha Aarti can be very healing.

There are scores of Shiva lingas all around the temple, and devotees can be seen lighting diyas and praying to the good lord. Again, the walls of the temple have white marble tablets where mantras, hymns, and verses are inscribed, mostly in Sanskrit and sometimes in Hindi. Devotees offer khichdi, bel patra, Ganga jal, and milk to Lord Shiva, and the lord then blesses them with good fortune and luck.

Sri Gauri Kedareshwar Mandir: Varanasi

The Kedareshwar Mandir is very closely linked to the Kedarnath temple in Uttarakhand, which is also a Jyotirlinga. The ruler Aurangzeb attacked the temple, but still, the lingam remains. There are knife marks on the stone Nandi that bear testimony to this attack by the Mughal ruler. If one visits this temple, it feels like trekking right up to Kedarnath in Uttarakhand. This temple is part of the twelve Jyotirlingas of Shiva, and it is a river temple as it is on a hilltop overseeing the ghats of the Ganges river. One can walk right up to get a view of the ghats. The central lingam is a shapeless stone, and it is said that Vishnu and Lakshmi are in one half of the lingam, and Shiva and Parvati are in the other half.

It is said that this temple resides on the third prong of Shiva’s trident. In the middle of the central courtyard are four temples with domes. Pilgrims take a holy bath in the river Ganga and then climb a flight of stairs right up to the temple to pray to Lord Shiva.

The legend has it that during an arduous journey, Gauri felt hungry, so Kedar went looking for food but was killed by a tiger. Hearing this, in dismay, Gauri jumped into a pond. At that very place where she jumped, King Utkal built a temple, which was called Gauri Kedareshwar Mandir.

An Aarti takes place every day at 6:30 pm, so devotees and travelers must try and catch the Aarti as it is very invigorating.

This is one of the oldest temples in Varanasi, dedicated to Lord Shiva, also known as Mahadev, the god of destruction. The temple was built in the 12th century and is very ancient. It is located next to a large water kund. The most eye-catching feature is that one of the Shivlingas is positioned beneath a very old and large Pipal and Bargad tree.

The temple is located in the southern part of Varanasi, near Kandwa Pokhra. It is devoted to Shiva, and many of the lord’s devotees come here to offer prayers and perform yagna. The temple was built by the Garhwal rulers and is constructed in the Nagar style of architecture. The water pond was built in the 18th century by Rani Bhawni Devi. Invaders tried to destroy this temple, but it could not be destroyed due to the power of Lord Shiva, and it stands as one of the most prominent temples in the city.

Kardameshwar Mahadev Mandir: Varanasi

I managed to walk around the pond. One has to be careful here as there are many monkeys around, and some of them can be ferocious, though most of the time, they are harmless. There is a huge white marble tablet affixed to the temple wall, which has the famous mantra, Rudrashtakam, inscribed in Sanskrit verses. Rudrashtakam is a powerful meditation mantra to evoke and please Shiva. It was written by the Bhakti poet Tulsi Das.

I was fascinated by the fabulous sculptures carved into the dark black stone walls of the temple. Some of the statues of gods and goddesses were etched out of stone, yet the images are sharp and detailed. The inner sanctum of the temple has a black stone Shiva Linga, and I was able to sit in one of the poojas as well. A family was performing a Maha Mrityunjaya Japa, and I offered my prayers to Lord Shiva. It was very peaceful at that moment, with the calm waters of the pond. The temple had a deep spiritual ambiance.

As I walked out of the temple, I was surprised to see another temple just opposite it, called the Virupakshagan Temple.

Rudrashtakam Mantra:

नमामीशमीशान निर्वाणरूपं
विभुं व्यापकं ब्रह्मवेदस्वरूपम् ।
निजं निर्गुणं निर्विकल्पं निरीहं
चिदाकाशमाकाशवासं भजेऽहम् ॥१॥

The Batuk Bhairav Mandir is located near the Kamacha Devi temple, north of Varanasi. Batuk is the child of Bhairav, who is also known as the gatekeeper of the city. Bhairav is a form of Shiva, and it is said that, like a watchman, he protects one of the oldest and most ancient cities in the world, Kashi.

“Batuk” means child, and this temple is revered by the tantric and Aghori traditions. There are pumpkins and lemons scattered around large trees. The pumpkins are chopped, symbolizing a sacrifice to please the lord. The temple was renovated by King Balwant Singh in the 16th century. The temple holds the power of all the nine planets, and devotees who visit are freed from all evil and planetary problems.

Sri Batuk Bhairav Mandir: Varanasi

This temple brings good luck to those suffering from court cases or legal problems. A visit to this temple can help rid a person of such troubles. It also provides strength to fight off enemies and brings good fortune. There are many dogs walking around the temple; most of the time, they just lie around. During the Arti, when Bhairav is invoked, these dogs make a sound resembling the sound of a conch shell being blown by a priest.

Bhairav was the one who cut off Brahma’s fifth head and carried it out of guilt for committing a crime. Only when he was absolved of this guilt did he put the head down. The outer walls of the temple have carvings in black stone and granite that depict all the fearsome forms and looks of Kal Bhairava. On the inner wall of the temple are signs and designs, like circles and triangles, with the word “B” written on them in Hindi. These are yantras, which are a source of energy. Just by touching the symbol on the wall, one can absorb the energy of the yantra. It brings good fortune and luck.

There is also an Akhand Deep in the inner sanctum, which burns forever. The oil from the deep has healing qualities and helps cure dog bites. By rubbing the oil on dog bites, the bites are healed, and the person is cured. The oil has medicinal and healing properties, and if applied to wounds, it helps in their healing.

The form of Bhairav here is sattvic, gentle, and beautiful. Anyone who visits this temple is rid of all worldly obstacles in their life. Batuk Bhairav is the king of tunes, so the vows associated with the temple are also linked to art, music, and meditation.

According to legend, Batuk Bhairav killed a demon named Abad, who had gained a boon that only a five-year-old child could kill him. It was Batuk, the child of Bhairav, who finally killed the demon, who had wreaked havoc in all three Lokas.

A must-visit place for those interested in seeing old temples or who are saddled with an ugly court case.

Dhanwantri is the Physician of all the Devas and the God of Ayurveda, as mentioned in the Puranas. The Mrityunjay Mandir is dedicated to Lord Shiva, but there is also an idol of Shane Dev in the temple. What attracts most devotees from far-flung areas is the Koop, or well, called the Dhanwantri Koop, located in the middle of the temple, in its very courtyard. This well contains water with medicinal qualities, as Dhanwantri is the Deva of medicine. According to legend, Dhanwantri threw all his medicines into the well. It is believed that drinking from the well’s water can cure skin ailments and other diseases. People drink and even bathe in the water, as it is believed to have healing and purification qualities.

Mrityunjay Mandir and The Dhanwantri Koop

I drank from the well and even rubbed it on my genitals, as the skin in that area had become scaly and itchy. I hoped the water would heal that part of my body. There are Shiva lingas that people worship as well. The walls of the temple are adorned with paintings of Ganesha and other Devas. There is wall art depicting scenes from the stories of the Puranas. The only disappointing thing was that there was a lot of litter around, and the temple was not very clean. I think the local priests can improve the situation by cleaning the temple and removing the rubbish and litter around the walls and floor.

This temple is located in Dara Nagar, north of Kashi Vishwanath. It is quite a distance and requires a long auto ride through the bustling traffic of Varanasi, but it’s a journey worth making just to drink the water from the well. I sat down with the local pandits who smeared haldi paste and painted my forehead with a red tika. Shiva is the dominant idol of the mandir, but there are also images of Kali, Rama, and Hanuman.

Mrityunjaya Mahadev means the lord who triumphs over death. Devotees come here to perform the Maha Mrityunjaya Jaap and seek the blessings of the Shiva Linga, which is believed to protect them from unnatural death.

The well water, which is said to heal all diseases, makes this temple a must-visit for all tourists who come to Varanasi. Devotees can also carry the well water in bottles and drink it regularly to enjoy its healing effects and qualities.

This is the most photographed temple in the city, and the reason is that it leans from the back, with its inner sanctum mostly submerged under the waters of the Ganges throughout the year, except during the summer months. Also known as the Leaning Temple of Varanasi, it is often compared to the Leaning Tower of Pisa in Italy. The temple has a height of 13 meters and is significantly tilted at the back. Imagine getting some great pictures of this ancient temple, which is dedicated to Shiva.

The temple is located near Manikarnika Ghat, and it leans by nine degrees. Unlike the other temples, it is built at a very low level, and the garbhagriha (inner sanctum) remains perpetually underwater for most of the year.

Ratneshwar Mahadev: The Leaning Temple of Varanasi

The temple is also known as Kashi Karvat, which refers to its unique leaning feature.

It is said that the temple was constructed by a servant of Raja Man Singh for his mother, Ratna Bai, over five hundred years ago. As soon as it was built, the man proclaimed that he had repaid his debt to his mother. Immediately after saying these words, the temple tilted by nine degrees. This is the legendary story behind the leaning temple.

All in all, this temple adds to the mystique of the Ghats and is a must-see for most travelers to this great holy city.

It was important for me to get a real feel of Varanasi, which is why I decided to embark on a journey around the ghats of the city. I stay quite close to Assi Ghat, which is one of the best places to be. It is situated on the banks of the Ganges, and one can take a boat across the river from here. That is the best way to see and enjoy the view of the ancient ghats of this city. Although I have taken this boat ride many times before, the fun part is that each time, it feels like a brand-new experience for me.

Facing Death: Manikarnika Ghat

I wanted a long ride and paid Rs 1500 to the boatman. He asked me to hop into the boat, which was very basic. Fortunately, we had life jackets for safety, and I made sure to wear one. The boat wobbled a bit when I jumped in, but I soon got my balance and a feel for the boat. I found a safe and quiet spot and settled there. Soon, the boatman started to row, and I felt lightheaded, drawn to the sight of many migratory Siberian birds. They were flying overhead, and their flight path was low enough for me to get some clear pictures of them.

They were all over the river, hundreds of them, white like doves, flying overhead with carefree abandon. These birds fly all the way from Siberia to the temperate climate of Varanasi. I loved taking pictures of them while my friend Tiwari chatted with the boatman.

The ghats looked very neat and clean, as did the water of the Ganges. It was obvious that the town was undergoing a cleaning drive. I could see huge boats cleaning and filtering the water of the Ganges. These boats, like massive motorized vessels, would gulp large volumes of water, purify it, and then expel the trash, leaving behind clean, filtered water. It was clear that the city was preparing for the Maha Kumbh, which will begin in January 2025. I had never seen a machine that could purify river water just by floating on top of it, but this was a novel experience.

The boat gave me a clear view of the ghats, and I got a panoramic view of the Ganges, with hundreds of colorful boats floating around.

After forty minutes, we decided to get off the boat and walk across to the most important ghat of Varanasi—Manikarnika Ghat. Being here felt like staring death in the face. There were four or five funeral pyres burning, and at least half a dozen bodies waiting to be cremated. I managed to climb up to the ghat to see the dead being cremated. It is said that for thousands of years, funeral pyres have been burning here, and this cycle of death has never stopped. This is the holiest cremation ground of the city. Only men can visit this ghat, and the entry of Hindu women is forbidden. There are huge logs of wood piled on top of each other, as wood is always needed for cremation. One can see huge stacks of wood waiting for a new body to arrive. Indeed, being here is like facing death up close and personal. It is a very humbling experience, and I waited for a while just to absorb the atmosphere.

More than 28,000 bodies are cremated at this ghat every year. It is a place where you can sense and feel your mortality, and one can see how fickle life is. Sadashiv Naik, with the help of Peshwa Baji Rao of Maharashtra, paved the ghats in 1730. This ghat is also known as the Mahashmashan, as anyone cremated here is believed to receive moksha (liberation from the cycle of rebirth).

This temple is also called the Pram Hans Temple and is situated on the banks of the river Ganga. It is a short auto ride from BHU and is a very modern temple, built in the ancient Sanatan tradition. The temple houses idols of almost all gods and saints from around the world, including Jesus and Moses. It has three floors, and in front is the Hanuman Temple, which features an idol of Lord Hanuman tearing open his chest to show his devotion to Lord Rama. The temple has a large porch, and one can see the Ganga flowing through the many windows that adorn the temple. It is a place for families to wander, worship, and simply have a good time.

Sri Sanatan Vishwa Darshan Mandir: Varanasi

The second floor has a unique feature—a den where one can enter the mouth of a huge idol and walk inside. Within this den, there are idols of Kali and Shiva. From the third floor, there is a great view of the Mother Ganga. The temple has marble floors, and I was given “bhabhuti” to rub on my forehead after I had prayed to Lord Rama.

This is a different type of temple, and to me, it felt more classical in its look and feel. The idols are beautifully stacked together in their chambers. Devotees can also donate to the temple, as there are many donation boxes around the temple complex. If you are feeling bored in Varanasi, it is definitely worth visiting the Sanatan Vishwa Darshan Mandir.

Sant Ravi Das was a mystic poet and religious saint deeply connected to the Bhakti movement of the 15th and 16th centuries. He was a revered guru across Uttar Pradesh, Bihar, and much of central India. He was born in 1433 and was a social reformer who fought against the caste system, advocating for equality for women and their rights. He was born in a small village called Gobardhanpur, near Varanasi. The legend has it that Ravi Das met Guru Nanak and was deeply inspired by the Sikh faith. The devotees of Ravi Das consider their faith to be an offshoot of Sikhism, and Ravi Das himself is seen as a Guru in Sikhism.

Sant Ravi Das Samarak Park: Varanasi

Ravi Dassia is a religion that originated as an offshoot of Sikhism and also has its own holy book called Amrit Bani Guru Ravi Das Ji.

Ravi Das was a Chamar and a cobbler, but in his later years, he spent most of his time with saints, aghoris, and gurus on the banks of the Ganges. He spent much of his life wandering and traveling across northern and central India. He said that the only way forward for the Chamar community was to take their own spiritual path and form their own religion based on the teachings of Ravi Das. He resisted the Hindu saints and criticized the caste system. He was the messiah of the Dalits and always worked for their upliftment.

Ravi Das often spoke about a promised land called Begumpura, where he wanted to live with his disciples. This would be a perfect city where everyone would be equal, and there would be no suffering or despair. He wrote about this utopian land in many of his poems.

Ravi Das was also worshipped and revered by Meera Bai, who sang Bhakti songs for her Guru. She was his true Bhakta.

The famous park is built near the Sant Ravi Das Ghat and spans more than 25 acres. It is a lush green park with a huge statue of the saint at the center. The park is open to local visitors and is a pilgrimage spot for the followers of Ravi Das.

The Ravi Das Ghat is at the southernmost tip of Varanasi and is the largest ghat in the city. It is an important pilgrimage spot, with visitors coming throughout the year to pay homage. I even managed to chat with an Australian tourist who was not too pleased when I told him the score of the India vs. Australia cricket match. “We won! We beat you guys in Perth,” I told the Aussie, and then I shared how I played the didgeridoo in Sydney. The man was quite pleased with my act and went on his way cheerfully.

The statue of Ravi Das is situated on a marble altar with steps leading up to a dais where the statue is placed. The park is lush and well-kept, with paths and walkways. It felt peaceful just walking around the park.

Many people come here on the day of Dev Diwali, and one can also take a helium balloon ride around the park to get a bird’s-eye view from the sky.

I generally have dinner at a South Indian restaurant on Lanka Road called Sagar Ratna. It’s perfect for light South Indian dishes, but what was most fun today was a visit to a very famous paan shop in the city called Keshav Tumbul Paan Bhandar. It was the best paan I have had in ages. The owner was an old, stout man who was an expert in preparing the softest, most mouth-watering paan.

“You see, our paans are different. You don’t need to chew them; just put them in your mouth, and they will melt. These are so gentle that they will just melt in your mouth. These are the most delicate paans in the world,” said the man, who was the younger brother of the founder.

Benaras Ki Shaan: Keshav Tumbul Paan Bhandar

“We have been in operation for fifty-eight years. I am the third generation. See, even the Prime Minister Modi ji eats my paan; he gets them packed as well. We also supplied paans at Abhishek Bachchan’s wedding, and my elder brother even served a paan to Amitabh ji. All politicians love our paan. We have also served Rajnath Singh and Singhal Sahib. Our motto is simple: we only use the best ingredients, and they are safe and clean. We place a lot of emphasis on purity. We serve Maghai paan and even Sada Patta. We have lots of variety here.” The man informed me, rather excitedly, that I was taking pictures of the inside of his shop.

There was a picture of the owner with Modi ji, the pride of his shop, and there was a garland around the picture. The shop was very simple and basic, but it had some space. It was neat and clean, with all the ingredients neatly placed in their containers. There is a large portrait of Lord Balaji inside the shop. The name of the shop is written in Hindi on the outside wall, so that no one can miss it.

I made sure my paan was served rolled in silver foil, which just added to the taste. In seconds, the paan melted in my mouth, and I was encouraged to have it all in one gulp. So, I just put the whole paan in my mouth, and it melted. Within minutes, my food got digested, and I was feeling very light and invigorated. It gave me a high, and I felt relaxed and excited. The paan and its ingredients had a pleasant impact on me, and I loved the taste. I recommend it to all who visit the city: don’t miss the paan at Keshav Tumbul Paan Bhandar.

Munshi Premchand was the greatest Hindi writer who came from the region of Uttar Pradesh. Born on the 31st of July, 1880, in the village of Lamhi in Varanasi district, he was originally named Danpat Rai. He wrote extensively in Urdu and Hindi under the pen names “Nawab Rai” and “Premchand.” The man became a beacon of Hindi literature in the north; his novels and stories resonated with the common man. He wrote extensively about the plight of the poor and the underprivileged, capturing the pain of the common Indian woman in his stories and books.

The house where he spent most of his life writing as the “Kalam Ka Sipahi” is where I decided to go today with my friend Tiwari ji. It was quite a distance, as there was a huge traffic jam. It took us more than an hour’s ride in an auto to get to the house of the great man. Premchand lived here with his second wife, Shiv Rani Devi.

The writer spent his life writing against imperialism and tried to awaken the masses with his novels and writings. His works depicted the society of that era. His collection of stories, Soz-e-Watan, was banned by the imperialist government, and its copies were confiscated and burned.

Situated on the Varanasi-Azamgarh road, the two-story house is now a national monument and a sort of museum that showcases the great writer’s books and many of his literary works, along with the numerous awards and cups he won for his novels. There is a room full of Premchand’s belongings. I particularly liked the man’s hookah, which was placed in a corner along with his lanterns.

Munshi Premchand Samarak: Lamhi

There are posters and paintings on the walls, and there is also an office of the caretaker of the place. I even managed to chat with him and promised to give him some of my own books to display in the house.

The great writer’s library is also open for visitors. All the old and antique copies of Premchand’s books are on display. In front of the library is an open courtyard where stands the white statue of Premchand, with his birth and death dates carved on a plaque. I even managed to see a charkha hanging from the wall, indicating that the writer was also influenced by the philosophy of Gandhi.

One can take a flight of steps and wander onto the first floor, which leads to the open balcony. It is an old-fashioned house with the architecture of the late eighteenth century. When I walked out of the house after my excursion, I was pleased to see the Munshi Premchand Shodh Evam Adhyayan Kendra, which is a kind of literary institute imparting knowledge to the youth of the city and the district.

We spent an hour just exploring the place and enjoying the view. The government has allocated Rs 10 crore to update the museum so that tourists and fans of the writer can enjoy his works and celebrate his life for ages to come. There are ongoing plans to create a virtual museum just behind the great man’s house.