I had spent the entire day in my room, while my auto driver kept calling me desperately — he wanted to take me out for another tour. But I felt I needed to catch up with my writing, so I decided to spend the day languishing in bed. I’ve put on a bit of weight and really need to return to swimming soon.

After spending five days in Guwahati, exploring its many temples, I was ready to head toward the occult and magical village of Mayong, situated about 50 km from the capital of Assam. I was pleasantly surprised to find a spanking new Toyota Camry waiting to pick me up for the journey.

It felt good to be driven around in comfort after three days of buzzing across the city in an auto. I was pleased, relaxed, and eager to see what lay ahead. Mayong is often called the Black Magic Capital of the East. The drive takes about two hours, passing through the countryside — rice fields, flowing rivers, and long bridges that stretch gracefully across the plains. The road follows the mighty Brahmaputra, creating a scenic route that feels like a passage into another world.

As one nears Mayong, the air itself seems to carry whispers — tales told in hushed tones of sorcerers, shapeshifters, and men who could control animals or bend reality with their magic.

Mayong Village

Mayong has been part of Assamese folklore for centuries. What amazed me during my visit was that several pandal pujas were being held to honour the late singer Zubeen Garg. Large photographs of him, adorned with garlands, stood before crowds of fans who came to pray and pay their respects to the beloved son of Assam. He seemed to be even more cherished in the villages and rural heartlands than in the city itself.

The village is famous for its ancient temples, manuscripts, and mystical traditions. It is said that Mayong once hosted tantric practitioners, healers, and mystics who used mantras, herbs, and esoteric knowledge for both healing and control. Legends tell of shape-shifting magic, disappearing spells, the taming of wild animals, and healing without medicine. Even Mughal chronicles mention that Mayong was the place where entire Mughal armies vanished without a trace.

While the darker forms of magic have faded over time, the traditions of herbal healing and sacred knowledge still survive. The villagers are warm, welcoming, and proud of their heritage.

I was fortunate to have my room booked at a beautiful resort called The Mystique of Mayong. It has tennis courts, a large pool, and lush green gardens — a perfect haven for peace and quiet. The drive to the village had been slow and tranquil, setting the mood perfectly. There’s good Wi-Fi here, and it’s a wonderful place to relax and explore the mysteries of Mayong.

The real charm of the village lies not in loud tourist attractions, but in its silence — in the fields, the fog, the river breeze, and the rustling of tall grasses. Everything feels ancient, as if time itself has slowed down.

I am happy, and all set to explore the mystical heart of this ancient village tucked away in the hills of Assam.