varanasi – Anuj Tikku

Varanasi – The Holiest of Cities by Kavita Kumble

May 4, 2018

Having become Time, itself, I destroy the world here, O Goddess! ~ Shiva, Padma Purana 1.33.14

Varanasi, this holiest of cities for those of the Hindu and Jain faiths, is just the kind of place where even a twenty-minute walk will lead you to a lifetime’s worth of travel experience as you uncover an unfathomably diverse range of sights and encounters around every corner.

Varanasi has been one of the most intriguing trips I have made. Never have I felt a city so full of going ons. Just inane, often crazy, some brilliant, another bizarre going ons. Just going on. Like Life. Just going on.

The first thing people tell you when they know you are visiting Varanasi is that it’s dirty, flighty, full of garbage and dead bodies floating in the Ganges. But the only reason we all travel is the uncanny ability of these places to throw surprises at us when we least expect. We are left with eyes wide open as we see what we never thought we would find. Sometimes one needs to let go and let the place take you by surprise in its stride.

Here is what I found out:

My first look at Varanasi was at the airport I landed into which was plush and well-equipped. As I collected my baggage and strolled out, I was greeted by the cabbie I had booked in advance. The drive to ghats from the airport is an hour long or so, and in between, one can stop for some awesome Lassi which Banaras is proud of. The city is connected well by trains and flights all over from India.

And there I was staring at River Ganges on a hot March afternoon. The river flowed in still and calm, and as I saw it flowing, felt the same calmness in my head. I was suddenly so much in awe of the entire scene I saw. As I sat in my boat to reach the hotel, I bowed down my head to Mother Ganges and slid my hand by the boat to take in some water from her. I forgot the hot scorching sun for that moment and was mesmerised by the age-old ghats floating beside, and I knew that in the next two days, I will be discovering this 3000-year-old magical city. Known as Lord Shiva’s abode and the city he built for his wife Parvati, the place had so much of history associated with it. And it was clean and pristine.

I was put up in this 200-year-old heritage property (Guleri Khoti), which was converted into a luxury hotel. It had an age-old world charm to the same and has well curated beautiful rooms which face the Ganges. The only way to reach the place is by a boat which the hotel arranges for. You can, however, walk by the ghats in the city any time of the day.

I ventured out in the evening and my first stop was the famous Manikarnika Ghat. Manikarnika or The Burning Ghats is just one of the many ghats of Varanasi. It is the main ghat where bodies are burnt. You see piles of wood stacked up by the banks which are used to light the pyres. And one sees never-ending bodies been bought here day and night.

On that day as I sat there looking at the pyres burning, I promised to be better and kinder, since the scenes of burning ghats to my left reminded me that the time to be better and kinder is running out.

Varanasi has many facades to it and it was not just the Ganges. The food, the people, the Ganga aarti, the age-old 88 ghats there. I soaked in the place with all this, walked those Banares gullies with cows at every turn and colourful doors to beautiful homes. In the two days I was there, I loved each bit of my experience. Be it the ‘Banarasi Brocade Saree Shopping’ where I was helped by strangers on the road to find the perfect saree followed by a ‘Tonga’ ride in the city in the evening where the tongas are still pulled in by humans. I also got lost on those roads but obviously found my way back too.

I will follow my series on Varanasi with more posts on each of this.

As you leave this city, you yearn to definitely get back soon. The effect of the place will remain with you for days to come, and one takes time to recover from the magic.

It forces you to see beyond the obvious. Varanasi removes the foils and fixtures that clog our mind. It opens the soul for one to see deep inside. But it’s not for everyone, it’s for the pupil to be compatible, the guru in Varanasi is open source.

By adminin others, Varanasi

Epicentre of Aghori Tradition

November 13, 2017

The Baba Keenaram Sthal, Kring-Kund located at Anandbagh, Shivala in the holy city of Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh, is regarded as the epicentre of Aghori tradition. Existing since the creation of the universe, Aghoracharya Maharajshree Baba Keenaramji came here and rejuvenated this place during the 16th century.

During the Puranic period, Sri Sumedha Rishi had rejuvenated this place. King Harishchandra too passed his final test of Satya or Truth here when his son was bitten by a snake at the bank of the pond. From 6th or 7th century, the place was covered with dense forests. It is said that Gautam Buddha also went through this place to attain the final Shakti.

History tells us that during the 16th century period, society was in a very miserable state. Hatred, untouchability, poverty and many other problems prevailed. So Lord Shiva took the form of an Aghori and came in the name of “Aghoracharya Baba Keenaramji Maharaj” and rejuvenated this place again. Generally, people think that he was the founder of Aghor of this school. But it is not so.

Born in 1601 A.D. in Ramgarh village, then in Varanasi district, Baba Keenaram dedicated himself to this divine cause after he attained the highest spiritual state. He initiated the throne (Abbot) tradition in Kring-Kund and was the first Peethadheshwar (Abbot) of Aghoracharya Baba Keenaram Aghor Sodh Evam Seva Sansthan. Viveksar, one of the many books written by Baba Keenaram, is said to be the most authentic treatise on the principles of Aghor. His other surviving books are Ramgita, Ramrasal and Unmuniram.

The first founder or Peethadheswar of Baba Keenaram Sthal had conveyed to his disciples before he took samadhi on 21 September 1771 that he would re-incarnate as the 11th Peethadheswar of the Keenarm Sthal. On 10 February 1978, a 9-year-old boy named Aghoracharya Maharajshree Baba Siddharth Gautam Ramji, was crowned the 11th Peethadheswar and is none other than Baba Keenaramji, claim his devotees.

Baba Keenaram had direct vision of Bhagwan Dattatreya who was in the guise of Baba Kaluram and is known as the Guru or spiritual teacher who awakened the consciousness of Aghor in Baba Keenaram. The place – Kautila – preserved in Krim-Kunda Sthal bears testimony to their meeting. The statue of Dutt Mahaprabhu in the Sthal is a reminder of the presence of Bhagwan Dattatreya. Krim-Kund (Sthal) is considered the meeting ground of two thoughts-streams, the Kailashi and Girnari tradition and stands for Oneness of all sects that is Shaivishm, Vaishnavism and Shakta.

(For a detailed biography of the life of Baba Keelaram visit: http://www.shriaghoreshwar.org/en/shri-kina-ram-baba-2/)

By adminin others, Varanasi

Aghoris of Varanasi

November 12, 2017

Aghori sadhus, the most feared and most respected clan of sadhus or ascetics are notorious for their uncommon and ghastly rituals performed as part of their religious routine. Aghori sadhus are associated with cannibalism, using human skulls and having sex with corpses.

These followers of Shiva dress in black clothes, sport long black hair, look drunk and drugged, yet their eyes seem calm and sober. Living in cremation grounds, Aghoris prefer to live in remote places far from public gaze.

Worshippers of Shiva or Mahakali, the Destroyer, or its female manifestation, Shakti or Kali, Goddess of Death, Aghoris believe they satisfy the demands of Goddess Kali when they consume meat and alcohol, and have sex. All three things are banned for other sadhus.

The Aghora clan is said to have been created over 1,000 years ago and the first Aghori sadhu was Keenaram. Inhabitants of Varanasi can be seen along the banks of the Ganga River where the Kashi Vishwanath Temple is located. They are devotees of Shiva manifested as Bhairava who seek moksha or liberation from the cycle of reincarnation. This freedom is a realization of the self’s identity with the Absolute.

They eat anything and everything. Their food habits would repulse a normal person who would never even consider eating things such as food from heaps of rubbish, faeces, urine and rotting human corpses. After eating the flesh, they meditate all night while sitting on top of a corpse. They have reasons for their culinary choices. Consumption of excreta is said to kill ego and derail the human perception of beauty which is essential for a man to lead his life as an Aghori. They try to gain awareness of the Oneness of Everything and eliminate discrimination.

Sharing food with dogs and cows does not sound repulsive to them as that is how they share their meals, with animals which frequent cremation grounds, out of the same bowl. It is their belief that if they were to start worrying about insignificant things like animals dirtying their food, they would not be able to focus on their higher aims of meditating and becoming one with Shiva. They believe that one who hates cannot meditate.

Like other sadhus, they live in a state of celibacy with one exception. Aghoris consider that when Goddess Kali demands satisfaction in sex, they then have to find an appropriate corpse and have sexual intercourse with it. They have a specific ritual for sexual intercourse. The ritual claims that they can acquire supernatural powers through sex in the midst of the dead.

Late at night in the cremation ghats smeared with the ashes of the cremated, Aghori clans unite to perform this ritual. Women taking part in this act are smeared with the ashes as well and the consummation is done to the sounds of beating drums and recitation of mantras. Taking the form of Shiva and Shakti, the men and women perform this act in a state of trance releasing sexual energy in the form of supernatural powers.

The Aghori’s life revolves around the dead or the burial ground. He lives there night and day. He covers himself with ash which comprises of the five elements. Ash protects him from disease and mosquitoes. His desire to be one with Shiva leads him to imitate his physical appearance.

The human skull is the first thing he must procure from floating corpses of holy men in rivers where they are laid to rest. After receiving the magical incantation from his guru, he starts life as an Aghori, eating remains of the dead and bathing in the waters of the Ganga. The fire pit is his temple and the abode of ghosts and evil spirits his home.

Some Aghoris roam around with the femur (thigh bone) of cremated people as a symbol. They do not cut their hair letting it fall to their knees. They cover their bodies with a skimpy jute loincloth and at times with nothing, in the nude. Nudity, in their terms, is complete renunciation from the material world and its attachments. Most often, they smear their bodies with ash and wear human skulls around their necks as accessories,

Aghoris claim that they have medicines that can treat diseases such as cancer and AIDS. These medicines, called ‘human oils,’ come from burning human bodies and are collected from the burning pyre. It is claimed that these medicines are very effective but are not used in modern medicine due to ethical considerations. However, the authenticity of their claim has never been tried and tested yet by the scientific community.

The healing powers of Aghori sadhus are said to come from their expertise in black magic. What they say about these practices is that they never use their powers for harmful deeds. Instead, they absorb the diseases from the patients into their own bodies and eliminate the diseases by burning them using black magic. Some Aghori practitioners with expertise in black magic claim that the more they please Shiva and Kali, the more they gain powers.

While the whole world follows the ‘Right Way’ to reach God, these sadhus claim that they follow the ‘Left Way’ to reach God which is far quicker than the former. The ‘Right Way’ includes vegetarianism, sanctity and abstinence from lust according to Hinduism. But Aghoris believe true godliness lies in seeking ‘purity in the filthiest’. Sadhus claim that they could be true Aghoris if they were able to concentrate on God while performing the most perverted acts such as necrophilia (intercourse with a corpse), necrophagy (feeding on corpses) and coprophagy (faeces-eating).

Aghoris smoke ganja or marijuana as they believe it helps them concentrate on their mantras and strenuous yogic practices that they routinely perform. They deny when asked if they consume the weed for pleasure. The stages of delusion and hallucinations provided by weeds are taken as religious ecstasies and heightened spiritual experiences.

By adminin Kashi, others

Kashi – Holiest of Holies

November 10, 2017

Kashi Vishwanath Temple is one of the most famed temples in the ancient city of Varanasi. The main deity of Lord Shiva in the temple attracts pilgrims from around the world. The deity here is considered the 12th jyotirlinga, a sacred artifact that represents Shiva. Located along the western bank of the Ganga, the temple is one of the most powerful of temples in the holy city.

Varanasi is also known as Kashi or Banaras. Kashi is the oldest city of the world in history and known as the city of Lord Shiva. The temple is also popularly known as the ‘Golden Temple’ due to the gold plating works on its domes. Kashi is the place for moksha or salvation for Hindus as a darshan at the temple and a bath in the Ganga River is believed to lead one on the path to liberation. Thus, Hindus from all over the world try to visit the place at least once in their lifetime.

The temple was constructed by Hari Chandra in the 11th century and was rebuilt several times. The original temple was destroyed by the Mughal ruler Aurangzeb who built the Gyanvapi Mosque on its site. However the new structure was made by Rani Ahilya Bai Holkar of Indore in 1780. The lingam of the main deity at the shrine is 60 cm tall, 90 cm in circumference and housed in a silver altar.

A well in the temple premises known as ‘Jnana Vapi,’ or ‘wisdom well’ was where the Jyotirlinga was hidden when marauders from other lands raided the city and the temple. There are a number of small temples such as the Kaalbhairav, Avimukteshwara, Vishnu, Vinayaka and Virupaksh Gauri housed in the temple premises.

Since its construction, the temple has been upgraded and embellished with grants from benefactors. In 1785, the local collector Mohammad Ibrahim Khan constructed the Naubatkhana in front of the temple. The ruler of Punjab Maharaja Ranjeet Singh in 1839 donated 1 tonne of gold for plating the temple’s domes. In 1983, the temple became the property of the Uttar Pradesh Government and the third dome was gold plated by the State’s Ministry of Culture and Religious Affairs.

The temple is inside the crowded Vishwanath gali or small lane near the Daswamedh ghat. The lane is narrow and wet, with shops on either side of the route selling items of common interest including puja samagri like flowers, fruits, sweets, foodstuff, apparel etc.

The best time to visit the temple is early in the morning before 7 a.m. if you want to avoid standing in long queues. The aartis held at this temple are a top favourite attraction for worshippers. On the festival of Shivaratri, Lord Shiva’s birthday, there are more than a 10,00,000-strong crowd of pilgrims attending the celebrations. There are 5 aartis daily, starting from the Mangala aarti (3 AM to 4 AM), Bhog aarti (11:15 AM to 12:20 PM), Sandhya aarti (7 PM to 8:15 PM), Shringar aarti (9 PM to 10:15 PM) and Shayan Aarti (10:30 PM to 11 PM).

The temple opens daily at 2:30 AM. Ticket holders are permitted to attend Mangala aarti. From 4 AM to 11 AM, general darshan is allowed. Devotees can have darshan from 12 noon to 7 PM and from 8:30 PM to 9 PM. After 9 PM, darshan is only from outside. The temple closes at 11 PM. Most of the prasad, milk, clothes and other offerings are donated to the needy.

Only Hindus are allowed in the temple. Foreigners can view the temple from a balcony opposite the temple premises. Mobile phones, cameras, leather wallets and belts, matchboxes, agarbattis, and bags are not allowed inside the temple premises. Lockers are available near the security gate at shops where you can buy the samagri and deposit your footwear, all at a charge.

According to the Shiva Purana, Brahma (God of Creation) and Vishnu (God of Harmony) had an argument in terms of supremacy of creation. To test them, Lord Shiva pierced the three worlds as a huge endless pillar of light, the jyotirlinga. Vishnu and Brahma went their ways to find the end of the light. On their return, Brahma lied that he had found out the end while Vishnu conceded defeat. Shiva appeared as a second pillar of light and cursed Brahma that he would have no place in ceremonies while Vishnu would be worshiped till the end of eternity.

The jyotirlinga is the supreme reality out of which Lord Shiva partly appears. Jyothirlinga shrines are places where Lord Shiva appeared as a fiery column of light. Each of the 12 jyothirlinga sites take the name of the presiding deity, each considered a different manifestation of the Lord. At all these sites, the primary image is the lingam representing the beginningless and endless Stambha or pillar, symbolizing the infinite nature of Lord Shiva.

By adminin India, others

K2K: A JOURNEY FROM SKY TO OCEAN by Captain Suraj Singh Thakur of Indian Army – Part 1

May 5, 2017

Kashmir to Kanyakumari (K2K)

(A 1000 km Ride for Every Rider)

RIDE INTRO

It’s been almost 2 months since I completed my K2K solo ride, a Journey from Sky to Ocean, from world’s highest motor rideable road Khardung La Top (18,380 ft) to Kanyakumari at Indira Point. Nothing can fully prepare you for India but, perhaps, the one thing that best encapsulates the extraordinary country is its ability to inspire frustration, thrill and confound all at once.

(a) Overall distance covered is around 13,000 km ride.

(b) The journey starts from Kashmir and ends at Kanyakumari.

(d) Type of Bike: Harley Davidson Iron 883 Custom.

(e) No. of Days taken to complete the ride: 17 Days.

The K2K ride commenced on 7th Oct 2016 and was completed on 23rd Oct 2016 at Kanyakumari’s Sunset Point. If you talk to me from a rider’s point of view, it was a hard nutshell to crack and my ride covered both the axis to Leh Ladhak (Zozila Pass and Rohtang Pass), including Spiti Valley and all four important passes Marsimek La, Khardung La, Tangrang La and Baralach La.
This write up is all about my journey which I have covered and about my experiences en route which might help other Harley riders to do the same in near future and to scale those cold arid desert mountains of Leh Ladhak, Leh – Manali highway which is considered as one of the toughest and dangerous roads of the world.
Climate: The most important thing that you must keep in mind before you start your journey for K2K is that climate is the key factor in deciding when to plan out for K2K. One should keep in mind that climatic conditions in the far north are distantly different to those of the extreme south.

RIDE PREPARATION

It took me precisely 6 months to formulate my overall plan for the journey that included initial recce of the route in the month of April and May on to both axes towards Leh Ladhak (Zozila and Rohtang). After my initial recce, I moved back to central India (Raipur Chhattisgarh), my hometown, where I was having my bike and from where I was supposed to start my journey for K2K in the month of June.

K2K FIRST STEP

To ride all alone on such a long stretch needs a high level of mental preparedness because at last, it’s just you and your bike. The journey starts from the middle of the country towards icy mountains of north and planes of Punjab and then the mighty Himalayas. This is exactly why India is considered to be one of the most diverse countries in the world. I started my journey from central India (Raipur, Chhattisgarh) on 23 June 2016 and it took me precisely 6 days to reach Leh. I reached Leh via Srinagar on 28 June 2016.
1st And 2nd Day Ride (Raipur-Bilaspur-Pendra Road-Rewa-Sehdol-Allahabad-Kanpur-Agra Highway-Delhi)

(a) Route Taken: While Driving from Raipur to Allahabad, I have come across one of the beautiful highways of India, my route was via Ballarpur, Pendra Road, Rewa, Sehdol and Allahabad, I totally outflanked Jhansi & Gwalior en route because of ongoing road construction work. Also, the route is not safe if you are riding solo. So if you are planning your ride via Jhansi, you better think off. Later on from Allahabad, I took Kanpur, Agra highway. For me, it was a clean go. Once you hit Agra and are ready to roll on to Yamuna Expressway towards Delhi, it will take precisely 3 hours to reach Delhi.

(b) Distance Covered: (580 and 697) 1277 km

(c) Things to Do & Places to Stay

(i) Allahabad: Allahabad lies 135 km west of Varanasi at the confluence of two of India’s most sacred rivers, the Ganges and Yamuna. The mythical Saraswati river is also believed to joined them here and people call it SANGAM. Places nearby Sangam also have Mughal fort and tombs. Hotel Milan Palace is one of the best places to stay. Remember, Allahabad is one of the sacred places for Hindus and morning sunrise is just mesmerising. Don’t miss it at all.

(ii) Delhi: J W Marriott is an option for riders where our local chapter has the HOG tie up. So, you will be able to get yourself a room for less cost with 5-star service. Delhi is famous for its nightlife and so, you can have a ball of a time at HAUZ KHAS, F BAR and many other places where you can have a good time. In case you need any assistance, you can buzz Delhi Chapter Manager Mr Tushar who is one hell of jolly good fellow always ready to help. His contact number is 9910401532.

(Crux of this 1000 km ride: This ride is all about beautiful site scenes, beautiful ghat sections and beautiful highways).

3rd And 4th Day Ride (Delhi-Panipat-Pathankot-Jammu-Udhampur-Patnitop-Banihal-Srinagar-Kangan-Sonmarg).

(a) Route Taken: This particular journey moves all along NH 1A till Leh. You will be riding all along the long stretch highways of Delhi to Pathankot with beautiful valleys and ghat sections once you enter into Jammu to Udhampur highway and subsequently to Srinagar and Sonamarg.

(b) Distance Covered: 613 and 155 (768 Km)

(c) Things to Do & Places to Stay

(i) Udhampur: Hotel Singh Axis in Udhampur is pretty much good with its awesome Kashmiri cuisines like kheer and kabab. One must try it as the hotel also provides a reasonable discount to riders. So, I am gonna give four stars out of five for its stay and food.

(ii) Sonamarg: A cluster of buildings strung out all along the highway, Sonamarg is the last town of interest on the road of Ladhak. Its name means “Meadow of Gold” and it sits in a gorgeous location in a cleft of sweeping wooded valley. In happier times, Sonamarg was popular with trekkers. You can plan your stay at Hotel Glacier Heights surrounded by beautiful ice-clad mountains. You can also go for shopping for world famous handicrafts of Kashmir like pashmina shawls and Kashmiri dress. Skiing at Gulmarg and gondola ride in the month of January and February trekking at Sonamarg Tajiwas Glacier can be fun.

(Crux of this 1000 km ride: This 1000 km ride is all about riders’-dream-come-true Highway. Riders can ride all along the highways witnessing beautiful site scenes, beautiful ice-clad mountains and beautiful NH1 highway)

To Be Continued…

Watch this space for more in the coming days.

By adminin others

Inside India – travelling inner country Varanasi, Khajuraho, Puri

June 3, 2016

Finishing Bangalore, I was planning ahead and I wanted to do the inner country – visit some temples, spiritual center of sorts and wanted to mix it up a bit as it were and I planned an itinerary Varanasi – Khajuraho – Puri!

Khajuraho that small settlement in Middle India – Madhya Pradesh had the most astonishing temples, sculptures and arts. It is a manner of erotica Indian Style, all Kamasutra on Temple Walls and sculpture of gods and goddesses making love playfully in various postures and combinations. Many carvings depict multiple partners making love together in a harmonic stance. I am all booked to Varanasi which is a close place to land a commercial plane economically I guess and next day a Varanasi to Khajuraho all for Rs 10,600, $157 only .

My Booking’s one night at Varanasi and the rest in Khajuraho are done once again through OYO rooms and while they don’t pay me at all I keep plugging them anyway! And yes we have them in Khajuraho also, after all it is a world Heritage Site Funded by the United Nations.

I want to explore the Lakshmana Temple , The Kandariya Mahadev, Vishvanath and Parasvanath Temple. Also to take some good photos on my dear my Canon D1200 starter/entry level camera.

I managed to tap into my network and my night stop at Varanasi I found a “facebook friend” Bharti Singh as my guide to the city. We plan to go filming the ghats in the night and catch a glimpse of this holy of holiest city for the Hindus. I managed to find another friend of mine from my days at Welham Boys, a gentlemen by the name of Gagan Gahlot who runs a tiger life sanctuary five hours from Khajuraho. I called him up at booked myself for two nights at the safari park there. My schedule is jam packed for June with oodles of activity and meeting friends. What more can one ask for if not more ?!!